Straight edge clamps...

[Keith Woythaler]

When it comes to using something to help with keeping cross cuts and rips straight, what do you prefer to use and why?  

Bora

Rockler

Peach Tree

Or a homemade plywood/straightedge jig

This is assuming you would be using a circular saw or jig saw and do not own a table saw.

[rich b.]

Hi Keith, I use the tru grip clamp & tool guide, I have two 50 inch guides and a 8 foot guide. They work great,easy to use and hold pretty good. I use them for both my saws and as a router guide,both are used at the America time for the routers.

[Keith Woythaler]

thanks, Rich!  I'll have to look into those.

[Keith Woythaler]

Rich, is that the one by Griset?

[rich b.]

If you don't mind spending the money, I've recently upgraded to the festool TS 55 plunge saw with track system. Well worth it, easy to use, accurate and the cuts are clean & smooth, finish ready.I cut all my sheet goods down with that now.

[rich b.]

Yes ,griset industries

[Rita B.]

I have used the Kreg rip cut many times successfully.   I also made my own straight edge jig of a 4ft length.  I placed wall board and slat board on my garage walls a couple of years ago and cutting down 4x8 sheets was a challenge for me made easier using those two methods.

[Rick]

I just routed in tracks to my work bench in progress yesterday with the Rockler Low profile straight edge system.  It was easy to use and the T-Square feature kept me in check.  

[Rick]

Keith, you can have the best guide but still get mediocre cuts from a circ saw -- I do it all the time. That's the main difference between a quality track saw and my Makita contractor grade circular saw. Accurately aligning the base to the blade is well nigh impossible. Unless the saw blade can remain parallel and perpendicular to the edge of the saw base, the best guide does little to help.

[Ken Darga]

Rick,

I purchased two different higher priced circular hand saws---

neither one had the blade aligned with the base.

One saw had a variation of  .04 to .06", from the front of the blade to the back of the blade, and the other was .03 to .04", in a span of just 7".  (The blade was not parallel to the base).

It's acceptable for cutting 2X lumber free-hand; however, 

unacceptable for making accurate cuts with a straight edge guide.

I took one saw to the OEM's authorized servicer---they couldn't do anything with it.

Changing out the base plate, still produced the same results.

Both brand saws are currently made in China.

Returned both of them to the dealer.

Went back to using my older reliable saw, which makes accurate straight cuts, 8 ft long and within .02-.03,

using a straight-edge guide.

[Gary roofner]

Jay Bates has a  slick setup with dust collection.

 http://jayscustomcreations.com/category/woodworking-2/my-shop/

[Rick]

Ken, you highlight the glaring differences between contractor grade and cabinet grade tools. The walls of my house are plumb to 1/4th inch, while my built-ins are to 1/32nd.
There's a reason why Festool costs so much! It's called accuracy, precision, and repeat ability.

[Ken Darga]

Rick,

The saws, described above, did not have the "pivots" or the "mounting" feature in alignment with the base plate, thus the reason the blade and base were not in aligned.

I surmise its a manufacturing machining issue.