Kreg Owners' Community

Hi,

I've got the basic Precision Kreg router table that uses the cam lock style clamps to hold the fence in place once you've positioned it. I find both moving these things and securing them to be sub-optimal as compared to the other decent features on the table. It looks like the other much more expensive table comes with a more robust fence.

I'm trying to figure out what a better solution may be for my fence that doesn't end up costing as much as it would have been to buy the whole other table. I'm thinking some kind of hold down clamp using t-bolts and some kind of knobs and more "slidey" plastic or something underneath.

Have any of you modded your router tables with something better?

Thanks,

Scott

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Scott,

There's always enhancements that can be made to a product.

Features can be added to suit your needs.

Many buy a product, with the basic features offered, and they customize to suit.

It allows you to customize---this works for many.

If one doesn't have the skills or tools to make such enhancements that one desires,

then perhaps it's more cost effective to buy the upgraded model.

More expensive products may have the features you desire.

Less expensive models may not be to your liking, but is suitable for others.

A router table can be as simple, as having a router attached to a plate---

a cut-out made in a top, and the unit dropped in place.

A fence can be very simple to elaborate.

Tracks and miter slots can be machined in the top or add grooves and install metal tracks.

I have 4-5 different fences for my router table.

Each fence serves it's intended purpose.

Each is easily attachable.

Some fences are tall, some are long, while another fence is only 3/4" high.

The 3/4" H version is a simple 1x6 x 24 & 36" long, for edge treatment, and the like.

Components are readily available from various sources.

Peruse Rocklers catalog as well as other wood working suppliers.

They have lots to offer.

Making your own enhancements or adding features to a basic store bought router table,

may turn out more to your liking.  This way to can get it the way you want it.

BTW---Rocklers offers cam-lock clamps, and they are very handy for many uses.

I have several of them and use them on a varity of machines and work tops.

The portability and interchangability makes them more universal, for many applications---just use your imagination.

The cam-locks are also very useful for jigs and fixtures.

Works for me.  

There's probably a dozen ways to accomplish my goal. I'm just wondering if anyone else has already done this, what specific solution they've used and how they like it. The benefit of these forums - to me anyway - is to learn from others and offer up solutions if possible.

So I'll give it a few days on here to see if anyone's done this to their satisfaction. And if not, I'll figure something out and post results.

Hi scott is that the kreg benchtop table you got? I have the benchtop table and the cam locks can be a bit fiddly.I applied some wax too them too make them slide a little easier on the table surface .Never required a different set up too lock the fence in place ,as they lock down pretty good.Hope this was helpful too you go steady,mick.

Yup. The bench top. I'll try adding some wax. Doing that worked wonders for my table saw fence and table. I'll have to also play a bit more with how deep the screw is set. It could also be I'm pushing a bit too hard against it when I feed some pieces, but still... I'd like it as rock solid as possible.

A "stop block", clamped in place, on the back side of the fence, should do the trick to prevent movement of the fence.  

A slip resistant material, such as the waffle style matt material, can be affixed to the face of the stop-block to increase slip resistance.

Generally, excessive force should not be required to hold the work piece against the fence, while machining.

Feather boards are effective to keep the work-piece against the fence and against the table.

When machining larger size pieces, such as doors, wide and long boards, or the like, a larger table would be more appropriate.

Akin to cutting a sheet of plywood on a small table saw.

Bench top router tables and stands are more suited for machining smaller objects, trim stock, short pieces less than 3ft long, and the like.  Even a 3ft long piece should be support on the infeed and outfeed. 

The cam locks do require fine adjustment. Lock them down, and then tighten the screws. Press against the fence face. If it moves, tighten the screws a bit more, until the fence won't move. Flip the cam levers up and see if you can move the fence. If not, loosen the screws just a little bit--I'd suggest just 1/8th or 1/4 turn at a time. You should be able to find the right balance between locking and sliding.

If you continue to experience difficulty, don't hesitate to contact our our Customer Service Department either online (http://www.kregtool.com/Customer-Service-Serve.html) or at 800-447-8638.

KregRep

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