Ridgid R4512 Hybrid Table Saw

[Stephanie H]

I am looking for input from anyone that has an opinion about the above table saw.  I have been using the boyfriends Delta Unisaw...which is a dream.  I am now looking to get a table saw for myself.  I have been looking at the Hybrid's.  They seem to be a good size.  Not too big and not too small.  The price seems fair and I have read mostly great reviews.  But...more information is always better.  I want this to be a one time purchase with no regrets.  Thank you in advance.

[Ken Darga]

Sven,

Look at the saw construction closely, before adding a cast-iron top/extension to the table saw.

Consult with the OEM.

Cast-iron is a lot heavier, and may cause "overload" to the adjoining members, and make it too heavy to the right side of the table saw stand.

[Eddie Ellington]

I have the Ridgid Mod. 4511. It seems to be the same saw except the 4511 has a granit top. Could not be more happy with this saw for the price.

[Sven]

Ken Darga said:

Sven,

Look at the saw construction closely, before adding a cast-iron top/extension to the table saw.

Consult with the OEM.

Cast-iron is a lot heavier, and may cause "overload" to the adjoining members, and make it too heavy to the right side of the table saw stand.

Good point, Ken.  Cast iron on the left side (the bench dog router table insert) made the saw left-heavy...tilts that way slightly when I wheel it around...but it is still solid when I put disengage the wheels.  I thought by replacing the steel wing on the right with cast iron would balance it out, and of course make for a better saw.  Since the middle of the saw is cast iron, I thought the new wing would bolt right to it (as that is how the bench dog insert did).

I guess I could just get another bench dog and have two routers in the saw (a high expense, but it is always useful to have multiple routers).  There must be the right solution out there based on $, what the saw can hold, and what I need it all for.

[Kristen]

I just bought this saw in June on the advice of my brother, who did a LOT of research about different saw options before he bought this saw last year.  This is my first experience with a table saw, but I can't find anything wrong with it so far!!  The wheels make it move like a dream, which is a must in our garage.  It is sturdy and I don't get any vibration from it.  I was hesitant to spend this much, but now that I've got it I'm glad that I did.  My brother did mention that in his older home, it makes the lights dim when he turns it on, but I don't have that issue.

[Stephanie H]

Upate:  Have had this saw since December 2013 and love it.  No regrets.  Did buy a different blade for it for cutting plywood and a zero clearance plate...and enjoy using it that much more.  Now the challenge is learning how to make more things.  The internet has been a very useful tool for me in finding out information regarding woodworking.  

[Tony]

I've had this saw for 2 years and really like it a lot. I enclosed the end so it has solid top. It has never let me don. The first thing you will need to do is invest in a good quality saw blade the one that comes with it is junk. It's to bad that ridged dropped the lifetime service on this saw but it does still come with a 3 year warranty. As much as mine gets use which is daily. I have never had any issues. Table saw maintenance and a good blade this saw should be your one and done saw.

[Stephanie H]

Has anyone had the alignment problems that now seem to be an issue?  I have been having trouble lately with burning marks on the wood from the blade.  I noticed that the blade sits crooked.  I bought some alignment tools but have yet to have the time to really sit down and deal with it.  Just wondering if anyone else out there has experienced the same.  I have also read that Craftsmen and Grizzly also have this issue...something to do with this style of saw?  Thanks ahead of time for any input or information you might have.

[Ken Darga]

Stephanie, 

Sawblade burn marks on workpiece, can be attributed to

a. pausing while ripping or cross cutting---use a steady travel of the workpiece during cutting.

b. movement of the workpiece during cutting---use feather boards on the top side and edge of the workpiece, to keep it snug to the fence.

c. use a riving knife---keeps the workpiece from pinching into the sawblade teeth.

d. saw blade wobble---thin saw blades have a tendency to wobble---installing sawblade stabilizers solves this problem.

e. saw blade not parallel to the miter gauge slot---adjust the saw blade tracking, so its parallel to the miter gauge slot on the left-side of the saw blade.  (Instructions generally found in the saw manual for the specific machine).

[Stephanie H]

Ken,

Thank you for the tips.  I think #d is a good possibility.  I just bought a new blade that is thin kerf.  Never thought about wobble and maybe a possible issue with the riving knife, being that the blade is now thin?  I also know that the blade is not sitting parallel to the miter gauge.  I did not use to have this problem with the burning and the wood binding up when I am pushing it through.  Seems to be that it started when I put the new blade in.  Very much appreciate your info.

[Don Foley]

Stephanie,

When you say the blade sits crooked do you mean its not parallel to the openings in the plate?  I have the Craftsman brother to the rigid saw you have, and while not having any burning mark issues, I have noticed recently I'm not getting accurate 90 degree cuts.  The difference is slight, but enough to bother me.  I know the blade and the rip fence are parallel, I guess I better check the blade to miter slot alignment.  Oh and I have readjusted the miter gauge to be 90 degrees from the blade, but still having a slight variation.  Let me know what you find the issue to be and I'll do the same.  I ask because I wonder if your saw is more out of alignment causing the burning which I'm not getting yet (but may start if I don't correct it now).

Don

[james wilhelm]

Hi Don ,I also have an older Craftsman saw , I set my blade with a didgital meter  that is magnetic, some time the little arrow is off and I stick the meter on the blade to set it , then reset  the little arrow, have to excuse my spelling , was better at math ,HA !!  have a good day JIM !! !!

Don Foley said:

Stephanie,

When you say the blade sits crooked do you mean its not parallel to the openings in the plate?  I have the Craftsman brother to the rigid saw you have, and while not having any burning mark issues, I have noticed recently I'm not getting accurate 90 degree cuts.  The difference is slight, but enough to bother me.  I know the blade and the rip fence are parallel, I guess I better check the blade to miter slot alignment.  Oh and I have readjusted the miter gauge to be 90 degrees from the blade, but still having a slight variation.  Let me know what you find the issue to be and I'll do the same.  I ask because I wonder if your saw is more out of alignment causing the burning which I'm not getting yet (but may start if I don't correct it now).

Don

[Ken Darga]

Use a "thick" and FLAT sawblade, when adjusting the table so the blade is parallel to the Left-Side miter slot.

I've found some thin kerg saw blades to be warped---NOT TRUE FLAT.

Table saw balance blades are available for mounting on a table saw, so as to adjust for true and precise cuts.