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John, your statement holds true if you are passing a reasonably long work piece past the bit and using only the router fence to guide it. Quite often I find myself wanting to round over the end of a narrow work piece. I have a basic mitre fence that came with my table saw and it fits the slot track in my Kreg router table. Using the fence is a big help in controlling the work piece as i pass it past the bit, but in doing so the router fence MUST be parallel to the track slot. I picked this tip up from a Kreg rep at the Calgary Woodworking Show.
I see what you are saying about the fence parallel, BUT I also am haveing a problem with the face of the fence at right angle to the table NOT ABLE TO ADJUST OUT
Hi Kenny - not necessarily you just need to keep the workpiece perpendicular to the fence. I just use a 8 x 8 inch push block referenced off the fence to do that. Much simpler than introducing the miter slot as an additional variable. That's one of the things that turned me off on the Kreg table, the fact that it always wants to lock down parallel to the miter track and if it doesn't you're SOL and if you don't want the fence particularly parallel, you are also SOL.
kenny from Sundre said:
John, your statement holds true if you are passing a reasonably long work piece past the bit and using only the router fence to guide it. Quite often I find myself wanting to round over the end of a narrow work piece. I have a basic mitre fence that came with my table saw and it fits the slot track in my Kreg router table. Using the fence is a big help in controlling the work piece as i pass it past the bit, but in doing so the router fence MUST be parallel to the track slot. I picked this tip up from a Kreg rep at the Calgary Woodworking Show.
THAT is an issue. Have you tried shimming the fence?
Cjones said:
I see what you are saying about the fence parallel, BUT I also am haveing a problem with the face of the fence at right angle to the table NOT ABLE TO ADJUST OUT
Thanks to all for the Help.
Yes on shims, I also called Kreg today I should not have to shim anything. They are shipping me the U bracket thats wrere they say's the problem lies. I hope that is all it needs.
Cliff
I try to achieve a perfect 90 degrees from the router fence to the table---
(use a precision square).
When necessary I add shims, to square-it-up---
(plastic playing cards are very handy, as well as 3x5 and 4x6 file card stock---
keep a deck in my tool drawer.
I often need a high fence---8-10''---and use shims to square-it-up with the table.
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