Is there anything wrong with building an interior stud wall with pocket screws, or would framing nails be a better route? Framing nails would be cheaper in terms of cost.
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It wold be stronger and probably squared. It would cost more.
Putting up stud walls can be accomplished using appropriate nails.
Nails are the least expensive way to go.
A framing nailer, is the way to go, if you have lots of frame-work to put up.
Use caution when driving a nail near the end of the piece, so as to avoid splitting.
Using appropriate screws in an overhead horizontal member is easier, vs
driving in a screw swinging a hammer overhead.
Installing pocket holes---requires drilling holes and installing appropriate screws and a screw-driver.
This method is more costly.
Compare the costs of nails vs screws, for the project.
Estimate the set-up and drilling time, to drill 2 pocket holes in each end of the vertical studs, the top and bottom horizontal members, applicable door and window framing, and the blocking supports between the studs.
Screws are the way to go if you plan to remove the wall at a later date.
Squaring up of the framing can be accomplished with the use of appropriate tools.
Unless you are using the KREG HD, nails would be stronger and much faster, regardless which pocket hole system you are using. In many areas nails are required for construction because they have greater shear strength than the hardened screws which will break rather than bend. That is probably immaterial if the wall is not load bearing though. The screws forte is the pull out force required which, in most cases, is far more than is required for nails. Although, if you have ever tried to remove a ring shanked, adhesive coated nail, such as are used in framing nailers, you have to wonder about that.
A good, professional quality framing nailer is available on the reconditioned market fairly cheaply, I paid just over $100 for my Hitachi NR90.
I used pocket holes for putting in my gable end supports. I also used them to make my windows up in my clearstory truss. I have no problems so far in that part of my building. The clearstory is load barring and I also used nails. I had to use pocket screws for the windows because the uprights on the windows were going into two pieces of wood that was sandwiched together. I didn't want to toe nail the uprights because of the window placements. My upper windows are still intact right now in my shed/shop.
Thanks for all of the thoughts on this. I'm currently working on a remodel of a family room and I have to build a stud wall with an opening for 60" french doors. The wall itself will be about 7ft long and the bottom plate will be anchored into concrete. So this wall will be made of jackstuds and header mostly.
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