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Thanks Ken for the nice comment, I agree with the bronze too however as you know customers surprise you often. In this situation I'm thinking they may go to a brushed nickel and maybe even a dark color as the granite that is on the counter tops has a few streaks of black in it. The other colors in the granite would in my opinion match the bronze. I still have to build the crown molding which will be almost 10 inches in height and will be custom made. I'll be doing some cove cutting on the table saw and will build my own dental molding with thumb nail above and below the molding.
Ken Darga said:
Jay,
''Very attractive'' looking cabinets.
I'd choose a ''bronze'' hardware.
I dont use pull knobs on my dresser's but my costomer went all the way to Saint Louis and belevie it or not the knobs came from Inda.
Ken Darga said:
David,
Upon reviewing the photo, you posted, of the knob with fasteners---
I'd use an alternate fastener.
Select a fastener that will result in a low profile screw head, on the inside of the drawer front surface.
Exposed threaded fasteners, in a drawer, are subject to ''snagging'', while performing a wiping or cleaning operation.
Beautiful drawer fronts David. I love the 5 piece design. Well worth the extra work.
David Dean said:
Well I'll tale you one thing Im not doing that again I doubled up on the washer's and I also used lock washer's as well as threadlock and doulbed up on the nuts to and this is the first time I had to use my hand griner to cut off the thread rods. But I get this feeling that this one is going to come back and bite in the a@# thanks again guy's.
Hi David - Great looking chest of drawers. I hope it doesn't come back to ya. If it does, it will probably be because the whole knob assembly (knob, washers, nuts etc) is turning inside the hole in the wood. Fix, IMO, would be a t-nut on the inside of the drawer and a jam nut on the back of it. That would lock the assembly together and the prongs on the t-nut prevent it from turning in the hole.
David Dean said:
Well I'll tale you one thing Im not doing that again I doubled up on the washer's and I also used lock washer's as well as threadlock and doulbed up on the nuts to and this is the first time I had to use my hand griner to cut off the thread rods. But I get this feeling that this one is going to come back and bite in the a@# thanks again guy's.
A threaded ''insert'', installed from the drawer inside, could be used in lieu of a ''t-nut''.
The insert nut would be hidden or covered by the washer, shown in the photo.
T-nuts feature a large washer.
When I use t-nuts, I locate them where they're not readily visible.
Ken it was all one pace and Iam staying with handle's and with all the things I done to it I dont think its going to move and as my grand father said Rule number 1 the costomer is aways right Rule number 2 if the costomer worng refar to rule number one.
Ken Darga said:
David,
Upon reviewing the photo, you posted, of the knob with fasteners---
I'd use an alternate fastener.
Select a fastener that will result in a low profile screw head, on the inside of the drawer front surface.
Exposed threaded fasteners, in a drawer, are subject to ''snagging'', while performing a wiping or cleaning operation.
In my limited experience (40) years as a motorcycle mechanic, knobs with loose attached screws can be adjusted in many ways. Usually when a knob becomes loose it is down to a few possibilities, the threads are worn, the screw is too long, the knob has been loose for some time causing undue wear on several components or the threads have become stretched making a tight fit impossible.
Ken Darga's reply is a great answer, perhaps drilling a pocket or recess for the nut would remove it from the drawer area and once you have worked out the right length and tightness put a thread locker on it or nail varnish or even a nylok nut with a broad flat washer to spread the load. Locking washers can compress over time and star washers can become rusty too and both are ugly:(
Why couldn't you make the pulls from same wood on cabinet and cut a champher on the bottom edge.I do that on my screen doors if the want it.2 cents is two cents worth Great looking craftsmanship David.
jj GWS
Beautiful wood work, but like Jens above, I would make some wooden cleats that will span the holes and go ahead and finish them to match the current wood, while it is fresh and if nothing else you will have them available to replace the knobs when they do loosen up and they will.
clamb
Well I would go with wood but these kids now day's are hard on drasser's and pull knobs are half as good as pull handle's.
Charles Lamb said:
Beautiful wood work, but like Jens above, I would make some wooden cleats that will span the holes and go ahead and finish them to match the current wood, while it is fresh and if nothing else you will have them available to replace the knobs when they do loosen up and they will.
clamb
To keep the knob secure over time, using a lock washer is a good option. However, if it continues to loosen, it might be worth checking with a locksmith for advice. They can recommend the best solutions, such as thread-locking compounds or alternative methods, to ensure the knob stays in place and functions properly for the long term.
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Hi. I'm wondering if anyone has used the Woodpecker Free Hand Guard for dust collection on their bench top router table during pattern routing. How effective is it? It's adaptable to any router table. Continue
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