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A current project I am on requires 2x2.  I had no problem finding them at the local HD - they were technically furring strips.  I took my time and found two 8 ft. pieces that were not completely bowed twisted or riddled with knots, just enough for at least the next step of my project. Yesterday, I get to the point in my build where I will use this lumber, come to find that rather than true 2x2 that technically measures 1.5x1.5, these pieces measure 1.25x1.25, and they are therefore completely useless because my screws will never sink into the wood being 0.25" off, and even if it would, the furniture piece will look like you-know-what because the visible edges are nowhere near flush.

Reviews online show many people having the same issue at HD, Lowes, etc.

So my question is this - where do you think is best for me to find true 2x2 (that measures 1.5x1.5) being furniture, I am not going to use pressure treated so that's out of the question.  Not having a table saw, I'm not keen on using a larger piece and ripping something as thin as 2x2.

All help greatly appreciated.

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Hi Keith. Your best bet is a lumber yard or specialty wood supplier,some older lumber yards actually will make special cuts or can order it in. You can also check on any mills that might be in your area

Rich is right. Checking at your local lumber yard or specialty wood supplier may be your best bet, as well as any wood mills that may be in your area. Another idea is to look for true 2x2s in the trim area of your local home center, rather than the lumber racks. The trim area is where the wood is standing up straight. Here you'll find types of wood that are used for finish trim, which are usually higher quality than the construction lumber that's in the racks. You could also try ordering online.
Hopefully this information helps you to track down what you are looking for!

Keith, if you go to a specialty store that sells hardwoods you should be able to get what you need. According to the region you live in different types of wood will be different prices. Where I live, in the South, ash, maple, and birch are the reasonably priced hardwoods. They are still quite expensive compared to the pine at the home centers. You will need to look for wood that is sized 8/4. It will probably have to be milled down some, but you should be able to do this reasonably with a circular saw, or a portable planer. You will pay a little more for wood from these types of wood than you will from the big box stores that sells 1x and 2x which is kiln dried after being milled. The 8/4 birch that I purchase usually winds up to be 1 13/16" thick. Good luck.

Tim H

thanks guys....I appreciate the feedback.  I know there are two local lumber supply companies I can shop around....and I can look in the trim area of my HD & Lowes as well.  I suppose a total last resort would be binding two 1x2 with wood glue and clamps and then using that as a "fabricated" 2x2.


2x2 is the rough (as cut) size at the saw mill.

When planed it becomes the ACTUAL size of 1-1/2 x 1-1/2" inches.

This material is generally used on construction builds.  

The can be used as furring strips, over concrete walls and insulation installed between the strips.

They're also commonly cut down and used for stakes or staking, when making retaining walls to hold poured concrete, for walks and curbs.\

They are also commonly used for staking tomato plants.

1-1/2" x 1-1/2" stock can be made, by gluing or joining 3/4 x 1-1/2" stock.

Sometimes, I've found it less costly, by joining 2 pieces than purchasing a single 1-1/2 x 1-1/2" stock, such as with hardwoods.  I do this when making legs or exterior corner joints, on some projects.

Why not just ripp some 2 x 4 into 1.5 x 1.5. Skim cut the rounded edge off the 2 x4 and set the saw 1.5 and ripp twice. That would be the cheapest. 

Ripping often times produces saw blade marks, which will have to be planed/sanded, to obtain a smooth surface.


Most 2x2 stock isn't straight---it contains twists and is bowed.

When straight pieces are needed, I'd select a good grade 2x4 or wider stock and rip it---

followed by planing to make it smooth.

(NOTE: to minimize saw blade marks, a feather board is needed on the top and side of 2x stock to keep it tight against the fence, and use a riving knife.

Planing can be accomplished, using a power planer, bench type, hand power planer or a hand planer,

making very thin shaving cuts.

A Bosch 1594 hand power planer is a very useful tool, in a wood workers shop.

This model contains an edge guide for making 90 degree cuts.

The double carbide blades produce a glass like finish.

Ken is right you need a feather board it is easier to use  2 x 6 or 8 douglas fir is also better than regular pine. My Home Depot carries that but usually have to buy 2 x 8 or 10. One thing you didn't tell us how long are these pieces going to be? I usually cut the stock to ruff length first . Then ripping is easier than ripping long pieces.

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