Kreg Owners' Community

At Kreg, we make it our top priority is to ensure that our customers get real use out of their Kreg products. The tips and tricks provided in the Kreg Plus Newsletter, Kreg Jig Project Plans, educational videos on YouTube, and the forums found right here on the Kreg Jig Owners Community are all designed to add to your woodworking success.

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Please use this thread to give the Kreg Family a better idea of what you need in order to advance on your woodworking journey, and to let us know where we're succeeding so far. Thanks!

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It would be nice to make the guide on the RipCut a little bit longer to prevent saw movement at the end of the cut.

Filling the markings with ''white-out'' is described in the instruction manual, furnished with the unit.

Flour and water paste is all u need

I did a review on beadlock pro on kreg jig product review section  with pictures.

Ken Darga said:


The following is getting off the ''subject'' matter,

but the following is an FYI.

Re ''Beadlock Joinery".

Peruse all the reviews, on Rocklers product review.

Cuts and measurements need to be accurate.

Clamping needs to be tight.

Use a ''sharp'' marked line---0.7mm HB pencil lead works fine---

0.5mm HB pencil line is better.

(a framing carpenters pencil or lumber crayon marked line is too wide,

akin to using yard stick vs an accurate steel rule).


Use a brad point drill bit, for better performance.

Use a piece of masking tape, on the drill shank, to mark drilling depth---

don’t cut-off the tab on the jig, as some have suggested, so they could use a drill stop block.


Use a drill speed of 2000rpm, for smoother cutting.

(I get acceptable results, using 1500-1800 rpm).


The ¼’’ size drill jig block is ¾’’ thick---same thickness as the block for 3/8’’ size.

(Shims need to be used, when using ¼’’ size in ½’’ thick stock.

The drilled holes should be in the center of the work-piece.

NOTE: if the joined work pieces are not the same thickness, clamp the drilling jig on the intended finished side of the work-piece.  I always clamp the jig on the near side of the work-piece, so that the holes will be the same distance inward, on all surfaces.


TIP: Make sample test pieces---drilling and assembly---before proceeding to the finished product, so as to become familiar with it’s functions and design features.

Strive for accuracy, for optimum results.

Haste makes waste.

One learns more as they go.


I've made some of my own modifications, to my tools, to suit my needs.

I just had to figure it out, what works best for me.


The beadlock joinery system is great  for small jobs, individual builds, short production runs and small shops---

as well as for those with limited tools and skills---(you only need a drill, clamps as glue).


When making larger projects, such as 4x4 stock, using the beadlock joinery system, use 2 sets of ½’’ size beadlocks---each set-in from each face---front-side and back-side.  This makes for a sturdier construction.

Have you checked out the Kreg community lately , everyone is asking about the screw guide that comes with the master set , lets get them out there so we can buy just the guide , a happy customer is a good customer , JIM!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Kreg rep.  post by ernesto dupont  not wood wood working related  please take off this site , thanks

More thorough research when writing Kreg Plus articles sent out to us Kreg customers, specifically your October 2013 newsletter, Tips for Building with Pine

This article failed to include the most important consideration in pine wood selection, moisture content.  MC is a factor in most all projects be they fine quality furniture pieces or a basic outdoor deck.  How often has it happened that you complete a beautiful project then within a month, an unsightly crack or warp develops?  Probably more often than any of us is willing to admit.

I compliment Kreg on the distinction between Lumber Yard vs Home Center marketing, but MC must be considered with any project.  A more thorough article should have addressed these questions:

What amount of MC is suitable for which type of project?

What MC can I expect with #2 pine, or select, or D grade, or clear, or quality?

What does Kiln Dried vs Air Dried mean to my project?

A proper article on Tips for Building with Pine should answer these and other related questions.  Perhaps they can be addressed now?


I'm sure the content of the article was intended to be brief.

MC is another subject matter.

A separate article could be just devoted to MC.

Thanks, Brad, for taking time to write. Yes, moisture content is an important factor, and could be the subject of an entire newsletter/article. We'll put this one on the list for possible future inclusion in Kreg Plus. Thanks for reading!


wow thats great ...saw a similar one on an outdoor mesh banners should use it ...howve you been anyways ...ciao 

Please bring back the dri lube bronze coloured screws!!

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