Attaching apron to legs - pocket holes or steel braces?

[Shift]

Attaching 4x4 legs to a 2x4 apron on a 7 ft table.

Is either of these solutions significantly better than the other ...?

A)  2 or 3 pocket holes from the apron into the 4x4's using 2 1/2" screws, and then a 2x3 diagonal wood corner brace joining adjacent sides of the apron

B) Heavy duty steel leg braces that slip into a saw kerf on adjacent sides of the apron and then  fasten to each 4x4 legs with a hangar bolt.

[Ken Darga]

Shift,

What is the table width and height?

For a standard height table with 4x4 legs, 

I'd make the apron of 2x6's.

3 screws at each apron joint to leg, using screws longer than the 2-1/2'', you mentioned.

  I'd make the corner brace, cut from 2x6 stock---secure to the aprons,

and 5/16 lag bolt thru the corner brace into the leg. 

  I'd make a groove (saw kerf) in the aprons, and affix the table top timbers to the aprons, using table top fasteners (offsets style) brackets.

The table top fasteners will allow the top to expand/contract with seasonal humidity changes. This prevents cracks from forming over time.  The clips slip into the groove (saw kerf) in the apron and attach the table top timbers with a single screw.

[Ken Darga]

PS---if you don't have access to the table top fasteners, 

you can make cleats, along the apron and table top, underside. 

Run a screw thru the cleat into the apron, and run a screw thru the cleat into the table top.

Use a 1/16'' spacer, (a nickel comes in handy for this function), between the cleat and table top underside.

The space will allow for making a snug fit, when you screw down the top boards.

(I presume you're using 2x stock for the table top).

[Shift]

Great info ... thanks Ken.

Table is 38 1/2" wide, 29" high. I'm stuck with 2x4's for the apron because the table is slightly lower than the standard 30" and a 2x6 apron with a 1.5" thick top wouldn't give the clearance needed for people's legs.

If the pocket holes from the apron into the leg aren't enough to support the leg on their own, is there any advantage to using a wood corner brace vs steel brace for the bolt?

[Ken Darga]

Shift,

Can you overlay 1x stock to the 2x4 stock? ...

...resulting in a 2.25'' thick apron.

This will give this size table a beefier frame, for the table size you're making,

since it will have 4x4 legs and a 1.5'' thick top.

Locate the 1x stock, on the exterior of the 2x4 stock---

glue and clamp the overlay.

  (I'd make the overlay 1/8'' wider---overhang by 1/16'' on each side.  After the glue has set, remove the clamping, and use a router to make the 1x stock flush with the 2x stock, making apron members appear one piece.  Easier than trying to make the 1'' stock the exact size as the 2x stock).

Position the apron at a 3/4'' set-back from the leg face---it 'll give it a better appearance.

Steel corner braces are a newer hardware, use in constructing tables.

Wood bracing, has been used for eons---way before the metal objects were introduced.

  Some quality crafted wood tables, use wood bracing today.

  My solid oak dining room table, has ''wood'' bracing and cleats.

 

Shift said:

Great info ... thanks Ken.

Table is 38 1/2" wide, 29" high. I'm stuck with 2x4's for the apron because the table is slightly lower than the standard 30" and a 2x6 apron with a 1.5" thick top wouldn't give the clearance needed for people's legs.

If the pocket holes from the apron into the leg aren't enough to support the leg on their own, is there any advantage to using a wood corner brace vs steel brace for the bolt?

[Rick R]

On my table which is roughly the same size, I used 3 1/2 in X 3 1/2 in legs and 1 X 4 aprons attached with pocket holes. I then braced each corner diagonally with a 1 X 4. All with pocket screws. My top is 1 1/2 in cherry. All very solid.

[Jack Stokes]

Hey, I'm jumping in here but posting under the wrong commentary, I think.  At any rate, thanks for the discussion.  I'm building a kitchen island with 3.5 X 3.5 legs and 1/1/16" X 4" aprons top and bottom.  I'll also diagonal brace on the inside of the leg.  I wondered if regular pocket hole screws would be ok or if I should use the Kreg HD gig and screws.  My island base will be 48 long, 30 deep, and 36 high.  The top will be attached with the mounting clips mentioned here.  Is a thin kerf blade too large for these clips or just right? 

Thanks so very much

[Shift]

Thanks Rick ..... 

Did you use 2 1/2" screws to attach the legs to the apron or longer ones?

Also, did you use a bolt through the diagonal brace, or just the pocket screws from the apron to hold the legs?

Rick R said:

On my table which is roughly the same size, I used 3 1/2 in X 3 1/2 in legs and 1 X 4 aprons attached with pocket holes. I then braced each corner diagonally with a 1 X 4. All with pocket screws. My top is 1 1/2 in cherry. All very solid.

[Rick R]

It was 2 1/2" screws to put the aprons on and pocket holed them and the braces. It is all very solid.

[Shift]

@Rick ... good to hear .... it's shocking to think that the 1 1/4" of screw that's actually in  the 3 1/2" leg could be so solid.