"One suggestion. If the shelf is above eye level put the screws thru the top so you don't see them. Below eye level put them on the bottom side. This way you don't have to plug them & they are more easily removed in the future."
"Hi Luke. To cap it off I just meant to glue on a strip of hardwood to cover the plywood edge is all. I can't wait to see what you end up with.
PS-- That's way better than what I have. My saw sets on an old rolling tool cart my FIL gave…"
"Nice. Is your stand level & solid? I would plywood the back with 3/4" ply to keep it rigid. Run the ply 4" up above the table & cap it off with a strip of hardwood. You can mount everything to the ply wood solidly."
"I count 16 pieces in the parts list & 22 laid out on the 3/4 sheet diagrams. In addition I find 43 parts listed and 49 are diagrammed out. I think the parts list is supposed to be 2 pages long plus the 48" x 48" sheet layout is missing…"
"Make the apron board twice as thick as it is wide. That should beef it up enough. Another option is to make the one you will see out of the chosen material then move back about 16"-18 & use a wider one out of a secondary wood like Poplar."
"Make a test run. I would hate to guess at that.
You should be able to rout deeper if the screws come from outside the cabinet. They will be pointing in. Unless the ends are exposed then that's not an option."
"Make sure you get a router that accepts both 1/4" & 1/2" shank bits. A 2HP or larger motor since it sounds like this tool will be a workhorse in your shop.
I started with the router bit sets with the basic roundovers, trim bits &…"
"Hi James. I'm sorry but I wouldn't use pocket screws for this myself. Dados on the table saw or with the router & an edge guide would be much cleaner IMO.
However,, you'll want the pockets on the top side of the upper shelves so…"