final sanding of a project

[ray vile]

does anybody have a sure fire way to make sure you removed all the marks left by glue when sanding a project before staining it and finding a big old glue spot on it

[William Anderson]

Wet the wood with a damp rag and you will see the 'invisible' smears. Sometimes this means it is too late as sanding might not get all the glue off.

The surefire way is to clean all the errant glue from around joints with a damp rag before it sets up.

[ray vile]

thanks
William Anderson said:

Wet the wood with a damp rag and you will see the 'invisible' smears. Sometimes this means it is too late as sanding might not get all the glue off.

The surefire way is to clean all the errant glue from around joints with a damp rag before it sets up.

[Bob Fowler]

If you use blue painters masking tape alpong both sides of the joint before you apply glue, you can limit where the squeeze out winds up. Let the squeeze out skin over a little before removing the tape. I don't subscribe to the wet rag method of glue removal, I like to let it "snot over" and remove it with a scraper.

[Michael Welch]

Went to a Kreg Jig class saturday morning and the guy teaching mentioned this specifically. It is kind of like one of the other responses. He lets the glue thicken a little and it will scrape off easily. He was really down on the damp cloth. Especially if you are staining. It could leave you some blotches and really mess up something you have put a lot of time into. A lot of this stuff I hear and hope it sinks in, but I think by listening and trying, maybe it will come together.

[Ron]

If you are staining........you can stain first and then glue the pieces. You can also apply some shellac before gluing, it will seal the wood and sands easily. I don't like using a damp sponge because you will most likely push the glue into the wood. Firstly don't use to much glue, let it bead up and dry, (if it runs you are using to much) after it dries you can scrape the beads off. Good luck!

[ray vile]

thanks to everyone for their great tips, i'll give them all a try next time. I just received a mailing from lowes and one of the tips in there adressed the same subject.

[Jens Jensen]

I guess my reply did not get posted.You a=want to use mineral spirits to clean up glue TRUST ME

[Joe]

Use the tape and peel it off when the glue gets gummy. If you do not use the tape, same thing scrape it off when it's gummy.

[Robert Sanford]

Another way is to use the newer glues out that show up under ultraviolet light. Do that and you know exactly where the stain will not take without further work. However using the tape method mentioned above is probably the best way to prevent the need for the other systems.

[ray vile]

what are the newer glues that glow in the dark..that sounds like a great way to make sure you got rid of all that glue without the smell or mess of either oilor mineral spirits , although i tried the minerial spirit trick and it let me know were there were 2 spots along a seam that i missed
Robert Sanford said:

Another way is to use the newer glues out that show up under ultraviolet light. Do that and you know exactly where the stain will not take without further work. However using the tape method mentioned above is probably the best way to prevent the need for the other systems.

[Robert Sanford]

My mistake it is a florescent additive for glues see the forum here http://www.woodweb.com/knowledge_base/UltravioletLight_Tracer_Dye_f...


ray vile said:

what are the newer glues that glow in the dark..that sounds like a great way to make sure you got rid of all that glue without the smell or mess of either oilor mineral spirits , although i tried the minerial spirit trick and it let me know were there were 2 spots along a seam that i missed
Robert Sanford said:

Another way is to use the newer glues out that show up under ultraviolet light. Do that and you know exactly where the stain will not take without further work. However using the tape method mentioned above is probably the best way to prevent the need for the other systems.

[Robert Sanford]

Try this link for Titebond II florescent http://www.titebond.com/WNTBIIFluorescent.asp