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I had not realized they had come out with a new version. I bought the rip cut when it came out and love it. Only improvement I could see would be some way to stabilize the end of the cut.
The changes to the Rip-Cut are are below. You can see more about it on the Rip-Cut product page online.
The biggest difference is that the red pointer has been replaced with a new clear lens that has a red cursor line. The locking clamp has also been changed--it has fewer parts. You can see both of those in the image below. The blue guide arm has also been lengthened just a bit. The new version also comes almost completely assembled--just mount your saw and screw the guide arm to the rail.
KregRep
Thanks for up update.
KregRep said:
The changes to the Rip-Cut are are below. You can see more about it on the Rip-Cut product page online.
The biggest difference is that the red pointer has been replaced with a new clear lens that has a red cursor line. The locking clamp has also been changed--it has fewer parts. You can see both of those in the image below. The blue guide arm has also been lengthened just a bit. The new version also comes almost completely assembled--just mount your saw and screw the guide arm to the rail.
KregRep
Still think this does not solve the problem with the last few inches of the cut. Once the front of the guide is off the workpiece gravity will pull it downward creating a fulcrum effect and leading to inaccurate last few inches, Can someone make a video of how to get around this problem, that specifically focuses on the last few inches of the cut, seeing would be believing in this case
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I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters. What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much. Thanks.Continue
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