Not all my screws are fully "sinking" in....help?

[Keith Woythaler]

Hi everyone,

I started my very first project using the Kreg Jig Jr., and my experience in woodworking is at a beginner level - I love it, and I've always worked with either my father, brother, etc. in completing projects (decks, etc) but this is my first adventure doing it 100% solo.

I am building a radiator cover for my mother-in-law.  I have a nice plan, made my cuts, but I noticed that not all of my screws were truly sinking in to the wood.  I had absolutely no problem setting up the jig and drilling my pocket holes.  I am using 1'x4' pine, so I set my jig appropriately for 3/4", collar depth also 3/4", and used the 1 1/4" coarse screws.  I took my time making sure everything was square, used wood glue on the joints.  All of the screws moved well and most bit down and stopped spinning as a screw should when it's fully seated.  Some, however, sank down but continued to spin.  No amount of turning or adding extra pressure on my drill got them to sink further and get fully seated.

Any ideas?

All help is greatly appreciated.  Thanks everyone!

[Ken Darga]

"Strip-out" can occur by "over-tightening".

Remove the screw and install tooth-pick size wood pieces into the stripped hole, (fill the hole), and reinstall the screw.

Install the screws using a hand-tool until you get the hang-of-it---

(installing screws into wood, with adequate torque).

 

[Keith Woythaler]

Thanks, Ken!  I will try that with the rest of the project...hopefully that's all I have to do for now to avoid more issues.

[Ken Darga]

Keith,

It's encouraged to make sample test pieces---

make from scrap pieces of wood,

before proceeding to the final project piece.

In softer wood, it may require very little torque---

snug-it up, followed by 1/8 to 1/4 turn.

Check the joint seam---

you want the joint to be "closed".

(NOTE:  joining members need to be cut square and flush, to obtain a closed joint).

Assembling the frame(s):

Use smaller size tools---such as a tool with a "palm" grip (screwdriver) type handle,

before proceeding to using power drivers.

This power-driver, the Milw M4 screwdriver, produces low torque.

I find it ideally suited for installing screws in pocket hole joinery.

* 1/4" hex quick-change chuck is easy to use with one hand, for one-handed bit changes

* 21-position clutch setting with auto shut-off

* 44 inch-pounds of peak torque

* 2-speed gearbox: 200/600 RPM

[Keith Woythaler]

Thanks, Ken....the funny thing is is that I had used a setup with practice pieces and all went well :-)

I guess maybe just inexperience at hand causing problems.  I see you recommend an electric screwdriver (and thank you for all the detail - it truly helps)...Question: is there any reason I should not use a non-electric ratchet-style screwdriver that I can use with the Kreg Jig square driver bit?

[Ken Darga]

Keith,

A hand-driven tool provides better control.

Great for the DYI person, and the occassional user.

Ratcheting screwdriver

 

“mini-ratchet” drive tool.

 

  

There are several varieties, of both, on today's market.

Select what you like and is comfortable to you.

The Milw M4 is a very useful tool, however more costly.

When many fasteners need to be installed, and with repeated torque settings, a power-driven tool is the way to go.

Power-driven tools put less stress and fatigue on a persons hands and wrists.

The M4 driver is ideal for the trademan, such as an electrician.

I find it very useful in the shop, and the like, when many fasteners need to be removed/installed---

its easier and faster.  Always start with a low torque setting and adjust upward, 'til the desired torqure or tightness is achieved.

[Keith Woythaler]

Ok, great!  I actually was planning on using the ratcheting screwdriver that you mention...I already have one.  I'll go with that for now instead of making an investment into something like the M4.  Thanks so much.