Question about a Work bench project

[Jason Gustin]

I am new to this community, woodworking and kreg jig...I am building a workbench for my garage (72"L x30"D x 40"H) using 4x4 posts for legs and 2x6 for frame with an additional 2x6's below for a shelf. Using 3/4 ply for tops. My question is do you think edge joining the 2x6 with the 4x4 post (to outside edge) with 2 1/2" ph screws is sufficcIent for strength? Or should I be using lag bolts. I would like to use the kreg for this for a clean look. My plan is to also attached the ply tops underneath with 3/4 bit depth and 1 1/4" ph screws so I have no screws showing around top. Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions are welcomed.

[Mike Thompson]

I have just recently finished building a new workbench, so I went through some of the questions you have above.  I think the best options would be a mortise and tenon joint for both the clean look, and the strength.  Using lag bolts would be my second choice.  I am not sure I would feel comfortable using a Kreg joint for this.  I am not sure why, but I think it is the potential torsion and lateral forces that the joint would see.  

I did use the Kreg joint for fastening the top to the base.  That works great- especially if you have a heavy top.

[Jason Gustin]

Thanks for the advise!....a little nervous about tackling mortise/tenon on this one (never done) would have spend more $$ on proper tools to make sure I do it right. May end up taking the second option.

[Ken Darga]

Jason,

Sounds like you're new to wood working and building.

 

A working height of 36" is standard---higher if you're 6-6 and plus, and have long arms to reach the back.

 

I'd suggest a bolted construction---legs and main frame members---

lag bolts ---counter-sink the screw heads

 

Kreg Pocket Hole Joinery, using 2-1/2" screws, can be used to join 2x members.

 

 

Joinery:

Mortise and tenon if you have the tools and skills. 

Use lap joints to make mating surfaces flush, for the legs and main frame members.

(Making lap joints can be simply accomplished using a hand saw to make the saw kerfs, and a wood chisel and mallet to remove the wood between the saw kerfs).

 

LEGS:  (6) 4x4's---(hardwood is you have access to it, or then can be acquired from reclaimed  shipping pallets).

 

TOP:  

2x12's for the top---(2x12 will provide for a strong top to support a vise(s), heavy pounding, and the like.

Carriage bolts to secure the top to the frame members.

Top to extend beyond the legs---6" min.  (allows for access to vise, drill press, grinders, clamping, and the like.

Alternate: 2 layers of 3/4" MDF vs plywood.

Overlay of 1/4" MDF or pressboard--- (sealed with 3 coats of shellac).

(Overlay can be easily replaced, when needed).

Overlay can be bonded to the 2x12's using construction adhesive.

NOTE: It is desirable to have a HEAVY DUTY work bench, with a 1-1/2 to 2" work top, 

that may be subjected to pounding tasks, installing a vise(s) for metal working as well as wood working.

Cross Members:  2x4 running front-to-back to join the legs---use lap joints---secured  with pocket hole joinery.  ¾ plywood installed front-to-back, on the end legs, so as to prevent racking.

 

Apron:

A 1x4 can be installed along front, butted to the top,

 and below the bottom shelf.

Recess the apron(s) so it’s flush with the face of the legs.

 

 

Construction (options):

drawers between two of the legs, and

two doors between the other set of 4x4 legs.

 

If this work bench is located away form a wall, so that access is from the front and rear,

make the drawers and doors access from front and back of the bench.

 

For wood working and clamping tasks, t-tracks and bench dog holes are desirable.

T-tracks to be recessed into the top---(slot(s) can be installed using a router, or the like).

Bench dog holes are a nice feature so as to facilitate clamping---a nice useful feature.

Backsplash: 

Install a 1x6 backsplash, if the workbench is going to be installed against a wall.

(Electrical outlets can be installed in the backsplash area---near each end and centered).

 

Electrical:

outlets strips at the front and  back with duplex outlets on each end of the bench.

(Option: separate electrical supply cord for the entire bench.  A separate switch can be in the circuit, so that all power can be disconnected to the work bench, when servicing or not is use. A nice feature to have, when children are around. 

I have a separate kill-switch(s) to the bench and other equipment, for this purpose, so equipment isn’t inadvertently energized ).  

[Jason Gustin]

Ken-Thank you for this. I should have clarified, I will be using the table for woodworking projects but mainly for cleaning/assembling my rifle/handguns. I will definitely incorporate these ideas into the project, I have all my materials purchased, just need some free time to start it! To be continued....

[Ken Darga]

Jason,

Optional construction/design for your firearms cleaning/assy station:

Make an auxillary work top surface, that is 4" high by the width and depth of your bench size.

This unit intended to rest on top of the work bench, for servicing your firearms.

(Work bench height of 36” plus the 4” high aux top = 40”).

 

Construction to consist of the 3/4" board material.

Vertical (spacer) members,  2x4's on edge, 4 places equally spaced---

End spacers located 2” in from the end of the board.

Spacers affixed to the board, using kreg pocket hole joinery.

 

5/8” dia pins/pegs, made from dowels, cut to 1-1/2” long---

one pin located near each outside corner. 

Pins register with counter-bored holes, 3/4" deep into spacers and glued in place.

Pins to extend downward ¾” of the spacers---and register with 3/4” dia holes in the workbench top.

(pins registering with holes in bench top will resist movement of the aux work top during use and will provide easy lift-off).

 

Advantages:

A work bench for general purpose use, and the aux top for servicing your firearms.

Aux top can lift off and stored in an alternate location, when not in use.

 

Spacers between the bench top and the underside of the board will permit pan storage for tools, and the like. 

[Jason Gustin]

We'll from reading tour posts/comments, it appears you do know some stuff about woodworking (sarcasm)(:. Thanks for your detailed instructions!

[Ken Darga]

Jason,

You're welcome.

You can take advise from a wood butcher or master craftsman---

your choice.

.

[Leslee]

 Jason,

 I made a workbench with a "A" frame construction out of 2x4s  and used 4x4s as the stretchers between the legs that was the "A" frame. I found the workbench idea from Woodsmith magazine. It was fun and easy to build. 

[KregCS]

Jason,

You would definitely be able to use pocket holes for an application like you are referring to.  We actually have a plan similar to this on our website that you can download.  The only difference is that we use all 2X4's to construct it but you would only need to change the setting for the top and you already have that part figured out.  If you have any other questions please let us know.