Help using Kreg Rip Cut on pieces thinner than 24"

[Michael Pompey]

How do you secure your wood to be cut and not have the Kreg Rip Cut guide hit any of the clamps on pieces thinner than 24". I decided to copy the video and buy a piece of foam insulation to support my workpiece. I'm trying to trim a 24" X 48" piece of MDF into 22" x 43".

I can cross cut fine as the piece is 48" and the rip cut guide is only 24". When I try to secure the piece with clamps, the rip cut guide will bump into the clams. If I try to rip the piece without using clamps the wood moves. As I'm relatively new to woodworking, I don't like the idea of cutting with a circular saw without securing the wood and being safe as possible.

I recently bought the Kreg Rip Cut for Circular saws to help me with an audio cabinet for my home theater.

[KregRep]

If clamps are interfering with your cuts, you could tape the piece down. My first suggestion would be to use a few pieces of double-faced tape (carpet tape). Just place a few pieces between the sheet and the foam. You'll want to brush off any excessive sawdust/chips on the sheet first to make sure the tape will stick. Generally, you don't need very large pieces of tape.

You could also use wide masking tape and either double it beneath the sheet (to have two sticky sides), or simply tape the sheet down from above in areas where it won't interfere with your cut.

KregRep

[jason black]

what ive done in the past with mine is get the saw started forward, stop clamp behind the rip cut and then continue not ideal but it has worked for me. other wise just move slow and be careful.

[Michael Pompey]

This weekend when cutting some plywood, I taped down the piece to the foam insulation underneath; which itself was taped down to the work table underneath. I was able to rip a 18 x 48 piece cleanly with no issues. Still trying to get comfortable with my circular saw though.

I saw a video a couple of years ago, about work site accidents where a guy cut his thigh open from a kickback and I'm still a little freaked every time I start the thing up.

[Leslee]

 I would watch what double sided tape you buy. Some carpet tapes are permanent so, read the label before buying.

 You might not get it off after you put it on.

[Derek Gould]

I ran into the same issue. I find that the piece typically pushes away from the saw as you move the saw forward, either sliding forward or pivoting away from the guide edge. What I did was attach a crosspiece to my support, using a piece of waste wood, so that I could butt my cut piece up against it. This keeps the piece from sliding away from you as you move the saw forward, and when I get to the other side I just cut through the crosspiece.

[Gary roofner]

How a about a picture Derek? 

[Derek Gould]

Hi Gary;

I have a small shop, so I usually set things up when I need them and disassemble. I've attached a quick sketchup drawing to show what I mean.My approach is to attach a piece of scrap to my support, the same thickness as the panel I'm cutting, and butt the panel up against that. I usually try to align the edge of the panel where the RipCut guide runs (in my case the left) with the stop block, so that it adds a few extra inches of edge to keep the saw in line.

My setup usually consists of two sawhorses, and 3-4 pieces of 2x4 laid across the sawhorses. I adjust the saw blade so it extends just slightly below the depth of the panel I am cutting, so that it cuts slightly into the 2x4. I just keep re-using the same 2x4, so the cuts aren't a problem. I run a couple of screws through the butt piece into the 2x4's, and just make sure that I'm clear of any screws when finishing the cut.