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Hi everyone, question any of you good people got a Kreg mitre gauge ?Got one from santa mainly to use on my Kreg router table, any tips on set up or use gratefully recieved thanks .

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Some info and reviews here:

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16468&Max=999

The reviews don't answer all your questions.

I don't generally use a miter gauge on my router tables,

I use other shop-made wood guides.

A miter gauge may come in handy, on a router table, for some machining operations, such as other than a 90 degree setting.

I'd install a wooden auxiliary fence, applicable  size and shape, so as to avoid damaging the metal fence, so the metal fence doesn't make contact with the spinning router bits.

The Kreg miter gauge is an excellent tool choice for a table saw---

it contains several great features. 

Hi ken,thanks for the info i am hoping to use the mitre gauge on my tablesaw as well .I measured the tracks width with calipers seem to be the same.I will do some test cuts first.I did experience some problems with the grub screws not seating probably in the bar had to tap them out slightly for a nice fit.A lot of swarf in the holes.

The ''grub screws'' are ''adjustable''---

they're factory positioned so the miter bar drops into a miter slot.

(Machined miter slots can vary between machines.  I've found some variances of 0.005'').

Insert an applicable size ''driver-tip'' into the head of the grub screw(s)---

adjust them outward (rotate counter-clockwise)---

about 1/8 turn at a time---

so the head just touches the inside of the miter track.

The end result to be, so there is no side-to-side movement of the miter bar---

the miter bar should slide freely, when sliding the miter gauge up-and-back.

(Install some furniture paste wax into the miter slots to obtain an almost friction free movement).

SWARF in the holes can be removed by using an air compressor.

(Brush out the larger visible particles, use a small portion of mild solvent or WD40, then blow out the holes).

Hi ken,followed the instructions included ken. She slides and glides a dream .The swarf issue was more of a issue because the threads were a little rough . Luckily my brother is a motor mechanic and showed me how to  clean out the threads with a tool he has ,good old bro.Thanks for your good advice once again.

Mike,

I get some new threaded objects, that do not have ''smooth'' threads.

Threads can be cleaned, using a ''thread chaser''.

Hi ken,what we used was a fine thread cutter.Is that the same thing as a thread chaser ?I maybe wrong believe the correct word here is a tap/dye set.Its kinda funny how we have different words for the same objects ,for example we call kitchen surfaces worktops i believe you good people call them counter tops.[Same but different].

Mike,

''Thread chasers'' are designed for cleaning up threads---

whereas, 

''Taps and dies'' are designed for cutting threads.

Using a tap or die to clean up threads, may result in damaging the existing thread---

and result in ''cross-threading''.

When using these type tools, exercise extreme caution, so as not to damage the existing thread, by ''cross-threading''. 

Always use a lubricant---such as a "cutting fluid", (I use a product labeled ''Rapid-Tap")---

and ALWAYS perform this operation by ''hand''---DO NOT use a power tool.

Yes, I familiar with some of the wording, used on the ''East side of the BIG POND".

I grew up and worked with several Brits.

I prefer to use the term ''worktop'' vs ''counter top''.  

Counter top is akin to a ''bar top'' at my nearby ''pub''.

Beer vs Ale---Ale has more ''kick''.

Here in the USA, when I went fishing, I'd call panfish ''pannies''---

Mr Blacklock, my former neighbor, (a retired British Sub-Marine Captain), use to think I was referring to his girlfriends garments.

I know where mr blacklock is coming from haha ship ahoy.Thanks for the info ken guess i got lucky with the tap/dye set happy days ken.

>>>...ship ahoy.../p>

...can't forget the "Chips and Ale''---

they go great together, don't ya know.

With a smidgen of ''sea salt''.

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