I am new to cabinetry. I am building a oak curio cabinet. I have 8" wooden legs to put on bottom. what is the best way to install them. the top of legs is3"x3" flat. Is glue and a couple 2" screws sufficient? .Is there special mounting brackets I should use? thank you George Slick
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Hi George - really not enough information to work with. 3x3 is a pretty good sized area for the top of the leg but if the cabinet is 6 feet tall, it is likely not enough for just glue. Are you working from plans? what do they say?
I am not working from plans. the curio cabinet is 4'high x 3' wide and 18" deep. if you think glue isn't sufficient would 2 or 3 wood screws and glue do for life of cabinet. or is there special screws or bracket for the legs on cabinets?
Doesn't look like it's all that large. I'd add a couple of wood screws for good measure though.
For a cabinet and legs, as described above,
the leg joint needs to be rigid and ‘’firmly affixed’’, so that when the cabinet is tilted at a 45 degree angle from vertical, the leg will be firmly affixed, with no distortion/deflection in the cabinet or legs.
If the cabinet is inadvertently dropped, while moving or handling, the leg should not deflect and cause damage to the cabinet ---or ---
allow it to topple over and damage the contents or breaking any glass in the cabinet.
I'd install a 5/16'' lag screw, centered in the top of the leg.
The opposite end of the lag screw, equipped with a 5/16’’ bolt thread,
that screws into a 5/16 '' threaded insert, firmly affixed in the bottom of the cabinet.
Install the threaded inserts, into 1x 4 hardwood stock, (oak or maple), running front to back.
Recess the hardwood stock so that it’s not readily visible.
Firmly affix, glue and screw, the 1x4 stock to the base bottom.
With the leg installed, the flat top surface of the leg needs to ‘’mate flush’’ against the 1x4 supporting member.
thankyou that was a big help
This type leg support is readily available.
Commonly referred to as ‘’clinch nut plate’’.
It features a 5/16 thread nut, that accepts a 5/16 threaded hanger bolt.
The plate can be secured with #10 screws
The pointed end of the hanger bolt screws into a pilot hole in a wooden member.
.
Steel hanger bolts are ideal for easy assembly of a bolted connection on a wooden joint.
I’ve used this approach with ‘’round legs’’.
When used with a square leg, space needs to be allowed to rotate the leg during installing or removal.
Affix the plate to a 1x4 hardwood brace, secured to the underside of the cabinet.
If the hanger bolt extends too far beyond the back side of the leg plate, for your design,
The threaded bolt can be cut shorter.
Apply a 5/16 nut, cut-off to the desired length, file off the unwanted burrs, and then remove the nut.
Alternate style leg plate.
Ken that helped me a bunch.I knew there had to be some sort of holding plate for legs
Ken Darga said:
This type leg support is readily available.
Commonly referred to as ‘’clinch nut plate’’.
It features a 5/16 thread nut, that accepts a 5/16 threaded hanger bolt.
The plate can be secured with #10 screws
The pointed end of the hanger bolt screws into a pilot hole in a wooden member.
.
Steel hanger bolts are ideal for easy assembly of a bolted connection on a wooden joint.
I’ve used this approach with ‘’round legs’’.
When used with a square leg, space needs to be allowed to rotate the leg during installing or removal.
Affix the plate to a 1x4 hardwood brace, secured to the underside of the cabinet.
If the hanger bolt extends too far beyond the back side of the leg plate, for your design,
The threaded bolt can be cut shorter.
Apply a 5/16 nut, cut-off to the desired length, file off the unwanted burrs, and then remove the nut.
Alternate style leg plate.
thankyou you have been alot of help.Its really cool that people help you out thru Kregs
Hi George,
Take a look at this video from Kreg. I've built several tables this way and the joint is very solid. Good luck with your project!
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