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I have a Sawstop 3.0hp and to the earlier comment about the finger test...
I installed and Incra miter according to the directions, but when you turn it to a 45 degree angle it no longer clears the blade. Yes, the Sawstop works as indicated. There is a very small nick in the metal fence and after a ruined blade and a new brake, I won't make that mistake again. Nevertheless, I still have all 10 of my fingers.
I also have a Delta 10" contractor saw #2000 series, added my router table. I bought it used on "kijiji" sell site. I had to re set the main works to make it cut true...but it was worth the extra time. Replaced the blade with a "Freud" 40 tooth.
Was wondering if it is worth making my own 0 clearance insert out of 1/2 in ply or using the white plastic material like in cutting boards ?
I hate to admit it, but I have a 10", 2 hp. craftsman contractors table saw, probily 15 yrs. old. Cuts straight, square and my thumb. Keep looking at a newer model, but this does a good job. Of course the right blade helps.
Bill,
I'm not sure who you are asking about the guard, but my blade with 90 degrees (no tilt) when I hit my miter... I just didn't have the guard on it because I couldn't see the alignment with my material. The material was about 14" wide and barely had the miter its notch. I guess I should build a table sled and that would have prevented it.
Bill,
I'm not sure who you are asking about the guard, but my blade with 90 degrees (no tilt) when I hit my miter... I just didn't have the guard on it because I couldn't see the alignment with my material. The material was about 14" wide and barely had the miter its notch. I guess I should build a table sled and that would have prevented it.
I had my guard off when I got injured as well, mainely because it does not work at over 40 degrees. I was just wondering of they had changed the design in 15 years. My lovely wife Marjorie baught this Sears 10 In. contractors saw for me a couple of Christmases back. I like my saw a lot, it runs fine and I rip down reclaimed lumber up to 6 by 6 in. beams. Well be safe always. I have the piece of wood that I got hurt on in my shop as a reminder and I look at it DAILY.
Robert Gordon said:
Bill,
I'm not sure who you are asking about the guard, but my blade with 90 degrees (no tilt) when I hit my miter... I just didn't have the guard on it because I couldn't see the alignment with my material. The material was about 14" wide and barely had the miter its notch. I guess I should build a table sled and that would have prevented it.
I don't have anything nearly as powerful or elaborate as what all of you have... I have a Ryobi 10" direct-drive table saw. Ya, I know... don't I wish I had a real table saw? But to be honest, this little saw has really amazed me. I've ripped 2x4's and 4x4's, full sheets of plywood up to 3/4 thick (with the help of in and out-feed tables and it just keeps on going! I would really like to have something bigger but I don't have a garage or even a cement slab to support anything bigger. One day the budget will allow for a cement slab and a bigger saw but in the meantime, I'll just keep cutting, and cutting , and cutting....
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I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters. What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much. Thanks.Continue
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