Hitachi M12VE Router Through bore diameter

[kenny from Sundre]

Can anybody tell me the through bore diameter on the base plate of the M12VE router. I do not have my router yet, I will pick it up on Thursday, and I would like to order inserts and template guides from Leevalley while they have free shipping. I know that John Schaben could give me the info that I am looking for, but I see no way of contacting him through this web site.

Thanks guys

kenny

[John Brideweser]

I hear it is close to the M12. The base for that is: Base Dimensions 7-3/32" x 2-3/4" I assume the 2-3/4" is the bore. I got that info from http://www.acetoolonline.com/product-p/hit-m12v.htm 

 

There were comments in some forums that you can cut the tabs or "ears" off the router base and increase the bore, that is what I will do. I just ordered my router (12-30-10) and got it for 196.99 at ToolBarn.com, my first time to order there but they review good. I ordered a 4.00 item also and got free shipping.

 

 The comments from "gotsawdust" at woodnet.net says after he cut the tabs off: "One more thing is that if you want to do horizontal raised panel, you will be limited to bits that are about 3" in dia. The opening in the base is 3-1/4" IIRC, which is slightly smaller than the base for the other 3-1/4hp routers like the porter cable or milwaukee."

http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/showflat.php?Cat=&Numb...

 

Good Luck and let me know what you do

[kenny from Sundre]

Thanks John;

I picked up the M12VE today and was able to solve my template guide delema. The tool has a base plate that has an O.D. of 7" and the through bore ( I.D.) is 3 5/8". It has an adapter disk that attaches to the router housing with 2 screws that accomadates template guides and or inserts of 1 3/16" diameter. Looking forward to making some chips fly!!!

Thanks, kenny from Sundre

[John Brideweser]

After using my Hitachi M12VE router for a while, I have never cut the tabs or "ears" off, they aren't in the way. I use the router in my table and I just raise the height on the router so the bit will clear the tabs. I also bought a collet extension which gives me an extra 2-1/4" in case the router body hits the underside of the router table, they are at http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/orderstatus/html/smarthtml/pages/rou....

Also, I love this router! It has lots of power and is quiet compared to my 1-3/4 HP router.

[John Schaben]

Hmmm, I must have missed this thread earlier, my apologies to kenny. Glad you got your answer. Afraid I wouldn't have been much help anyway as I have the M12VC, the 2-1/4 hp version.

[Jay Boutwell]

Hello Kenny, I have a mv12 hitachi router under the router table of which I use as my door making router turning the big 3" dia bits.  It comes with a base plate that is 7" on the outside and has a bore of 3 1/2 "/  When I mounted this router under a table I altered the bore as there is two tabs that protrude into towards the center that was made to attach templet guides to.  The are not needed in a router table and had to be removed to allow the clearence for the 3" router bits I use to cut door panels.  It should be noted that I removed the black plastic thin base plate so that I can mount the table surface it directly to the aluminum base with 4 machine screws.  The black base plated you see below is from the router.

[kenny from Sundre]

Thanks for all the feed back on the M12VE. I really did not have any intentions to use it on the router table, all though the power would have been a plus. I was looking for a good plunge router and when saw KMS Tools advertising the M12VE at $219.99 I bought it. I now have a new delema. I was real happy to find that Kreg was producing a router lift, and trusting Kreg's attention to detail and quality, and partly becuse of some wrong info I bought one. Well it arrived yesterday and it is a very impressive lift, how ever my Freud FT1700 router will not readliy attach to it, and putting the M12VE on it is totally out of the question. There are some reducing collars available that might allow me to fit the Freud to the lift, hopefully with little or no improvising. Failing that, I have two choices, sell the lift or buy another router.

Oh well, I guess I should change my name to Mr. Screw-Up

[John Schaben]

Hey kenny, your 1700 has built in lift capability in the fixed base flavor. No need for a lift. Just drill two more holes in the plate to access the height and spindle locks.

[Gary roofner]

The router mounts without base in the kreg lift the lift should come with plates.

[John Schaben]

Hi kenny - I just took a look at the Kreg lift and agree with Gary. I couldn't find a compatability chart for the lift but if you can get the motor out of the Hitachi, it will likely fit. I don't think you can get the Freud in it but it doesn't need a lift anyway. I've been running the 1700 in a benchtop table for 18 months now. You can do everything from above the table without a lift. If you can get the Hitachi in the lift, that would be the way to go.. that extra 1 HP is a BUNCH. I couldn't believe the difference until I got the Freud 3000 put in.

[kenny from Sundre]

I have been using the FT1700 on the table for about a year and a half as well, but found that it was not precise enough for my liking. There was a certain looseness/hesitation beween up and down. I took the router apart and put a thicker spacer on the adjuster shaft which made a big difference, but it still takes some fiddlling around to get the depth set just right. Kreg provides what they call "motor pads" ( PRS4110 and PRS4120) that adapt the recomended routers to the lift. There are also a couple of reducer collars on the market that might possiby work as well. As yet, I have not had time to dig into the situation in any great detail, but as soon as I get my pantry pull outs finished, you can lay money that that will be my next task. It would be great if I can adapt the M12 to the table, but will settle for the FT1700, other than the depth setting issue, it has been very satisfactory so far. I really do not want to buy another roputer so I hope that I can make one or the other fit.

kenny ( Mr. Screw Up ) from Sundre

[John Schaben]

Sorry to hear you have had problems with the 1700. I liked the one in the table so well I also bought a kit, fixed and plunge base. Hope you get it worked out.

kenny from Sundre said:

I have been using the FT1700 on the table for about a year and a half as well, but found that it was not precise enough for my liking. There was a certain looseness/hesitation beween up and down. I took the router apart and put a thicker spacer on the adjuster shaft which made a big difference, but it still takes some fiddlling around to get the depth set just right. Kreg provides what they call "motor pads" ( PRS4110 and PRS4120) that adapt the recomended routers to the lift. There are also a couple of reducer collars on the market that might possiby work as well. As yet, I have not had time to dig into the situation in any great detail, but as soon as I get my pantry pull outs finished, you can lay money that that will be my next task. It would be great if I can adapt the M12 to the table, but will settle for the FT1700, other than the depth setting issue, it has been very satisfactory so far. I really do not want to buy another roputer so I hope that I can make one or the other fit.

kenny ( Mr. Screw Up ) from Sundre