Table saw blades

[ray vile]

I was wondering who preffered what when it came to table saw blades, I need a new blade. The one that I had in my saw became bent while I was cutting panels for some cabinet doors I was exposed to table saw kick back for the first time.{hence my new profile picture}.

I'm looking for a good combo blade I have a frued combo blade now and was wondering if a forrest woodworker was all that much better to justify the price. And do blade stabilizers make that much of a difference.

Thanks RV

[Jens Jensen]

I have never had a expensive blade but have read that Forests are great blades. Everyone claims fame to stabalizers also

[ray vile]

Thanks Jens, My freud blade cost around 45.00 and a new forrester blade goes for over 100.00 and iI was just wondering if it's that much better, at 45.00 after awhile it don't hurt as much to throw it away.

RV

Jens Jensen said:

I have never had a expensive blade but have read that Forests are great blades. Everyone claims fame to stabalizers also

[John Schaben]

Hi Ray - I confess - I'm a Freud fan. I've got the Thin Kerf Fusion (P410T) on the table and the Ultimate Plywood & Melamine (LU79) on the SCMS. Both give phenomenal cuts. I've never run a Forrest but I think I got both blades for about the same price as 1 WWII. I have read on other forums (lumberjocks maybe? won't swear to it) where guys compare the Freuds very favorably to the Woodworker blades. I've also heard good things about Tenyru.

[Robert J Guidry Sr]

The Forrest blade is a better blade, I own a Forrest rip blade, but is it 2 1/2 times better, I don't think so, since that is the difference in cost between it and a Freud blade.  Any blade can cause a kickback if something is not right.  Make sure the blade is sharp, square to the miter gage slots on the table, the blade is square to the rip fence, blade is the right height above the work piece, make sure you push the work piece straight when ripping and using a riving knife.  A dull blade is an accident waiting for a place to happen.  Follow these procedures and the Freud is just as good as the Forrest.

As for blade stabilizers, it is highly recommended on thin kerf blades.

 

This is only my opinion.

[ray vile]

Thanks Robert, I do think I'm going with the freud blade lu83, its 59.00 at rockler, and the difference will more than cover the price of stabilizers

RV

[John Schaben]

Hi Ray, just looked at the specs on the LU83. Looks like a real good combo blade. I check the Freud specs and recommendations on all my blade purchases and they have pretty well delivered what they promise. Here's a link to the LU83:

http://freudtools.com/p-45-thin-kerf-combinationbr-nbsp.aspx

ray vile said:

Thanks Robert, I do think I'm going with the freud blade lu83, its 59.00 at rockler, and the difference will more than cover the price of stabilizers

RV

[ray vile]

Thanks for the link John, after a little more research I found out that frued say's you don't even need stabilizers with this blade, another couple of bucks saved, after reading a bunch of reviews this is the blade my little saw needs, I couldn't see spending almost 1/2 of what the saw cost me on a blade

RV

[kenny from Sundre]

My son bought me a Freud blade for Christmas two years ago and I still have not tried it out. I am saving it for when I start cutting some GOOD wood. Our Home Hardware chain supplies a line of blades called Exchange-A-Blade, and that is exactly what it is. You buy the first blade at a very comparable price, anywhere from about $35.00 to about $75.00, depending on the blade, and when it gets dull, you take it back and exchange it for another one. The blades are essentially reconditioned, checked for damage, straightness, re-toothed if necessary and sharpend (did I spell that correctly???). The cost of the exchange is about a third of the cost of the original purchase. the blade I have in the saw at the moment was installed about July of 2009 and has cut hardwood, spruce, MDF, particle board and plastic. It is still making easy, clean smooth cuts. A couple of days ago I made a 3" rip cut in the edge face of a spruce 2X6. The blade was buried in the wood, it took no effort, the cut was clean and smooth with no burning. As far as I am concerned, it does not get much better than that.

[Gary roofner]

On sale here .

http://www.amazon.com/s/?ie=UTF8&keywords=lu83r010&tag=goog...

John Schaben said:

Hi Ray, just looked at the specs on the LU83. Looks like a real good combo blade. I check the Freud specs and recommendations on all my blade purchases and they have pretty well delivered what they promise. Here's a link to the LU83:

http://freudtools.com/p-45-thin-kerf-combinationbr-nbsp.aspx

ray vile said:

Thanks Robert, I do think I'm going with the freud blade lu83, its 59.00 at rockler, and the difference will more than cover the price of stabilizers

RV

[ray vile]

Thanks Gary I was going to order it from Rockler, But I just ordered it from Amazon instead, Thanks again saved a couple more dollars

RV

[ray vile]

51.00 and it will should be delivered on friday, same day my stitches come out

ray vile said:

Thanks Gary I was going to order it from Rockler, But I just ordered it from Amazon instead, Thanks again saved a couple more dollars

RV

[ray vile]

yesterday UPS delivered my lu83r010 frued blade and this morning my stitches came out, I can't beleive how nice this blade cuts, I cut a 1/2" pc of of a 8/4 pc of maple about 16" long, the little saw hardly even seemed like it was was working that hard< there was very little as far as saw marks on it. Thanks to everyone that responded to my question

RV