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Hi all ,got a problem with my bandsaw.Had her a couple of years now,but never truly been happy with it.Its only a hobby rated saw ,but still cost me the equilvant of $350.I do not use it everyday but no matter what i do to the set up it will not cut any sort of reasonable curve even a slow S curve.I tried all the usual things Tension ,Tracking,Thrust bearing clearance,and a new quarter inch blade 6tpi.The blade allways veers to the left when trying to attempt a curve,got to be tension i thought .Tightened the tension a couple of turns and bang the blade snapped.So after i changed my underwear went back to it but still the same problem cannot understand it guys do you think i need a better quality blade?Or a new bandsaw?Would like to have a bash at a bandsaw box [no chance at the moment]so i got the bandsaw blues guys.HELP"

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Hi Mike,

Thanks for your reply.

Top of the morning, to you sir.

 

A half-inch size blade is more suitable for straight-line cuts.   One can only expect to achieve a relatively large radius.

 

A 14 tpi vs 10tpi blade will result in smoother cuts in Plexiglas.  Use a slower feed to prevent/minimize excessive heat, which will result in the plastic particles melting and fusing after the chips cool.  After the cut is made, the plastic cools, resulting in the chips fusing and will result in binding.  Use a feed rate that will be slow enough so as to allow the clips to separate from the cut edge. 

(Use a small blower to blow away the particles.  A compressor with a small nozzle and low psi output works nicely;  akin to a 12V ball or tire inflator.  Most small vacs don’t suck-it- up).

 

375W equates to 1/2HP.  (740 watts = 1HP.  740W / 120v = 6.17A). 

Small band saws are just not equipped with 1/2hp motors. 

Most OEM ‘’overrate’’ their motors.   I have some older 1/4hp motors, that provide more torque than some of  todays currently rated ½ motors.

 

(Salvage some old wash machine motors.  They come in very handy to power many shop-use tools.  Make a grinder/polisher.  Connect the motor to a belt-driven arbor, with pulleys sized to achieve the desired rpm).

 

Delta makes very good band saws. 

( I had an old one.  A great cutting machine.   Never experienced any issues with it.  It cut thru 2x stock with ease.   I’ve kicked myself, with my boots on, for selling it.  I was ready to buy--- (a great price I might add)--- the 1hp 14’’ stand mount saw--- so I sold the smaller one, then the guy backed out on selling me the 14-incher).

 

Alternate to a Rockwell Blade runner:

Mount a VS jig saw, to a suitable metal plate---

with the blade "UP"---

fit the assembled unit into a suitable work top.

(akin to a router mounted in a table).

(I have a BOSCH 1591 VS jig saw---an awesome cutting machine---doesn’t bog down and cuts thru anything I feed into it).

The switches and VS control is on the machine, and is more difficult to access, when under the table.

Simple fix:  plug the tool into an auxiliary ON-OFF switch, located on the front of the work top, or into a foot operated switch, for a readily accessible ON-OFF control.

Thanks Ken for the info,strangely enough cut some plexiglass today for my router cupboard front hence the 1/2" blade.But will have a bash with the new 1/4" blade when it arrives .Was fed up with my routers getting covered in dust so made a little enclosed cupboard for them today.

Mike,

What’s strange about cutting Plexiglas today?

 

Re ‘’Enclosed’’ cupboard---

The router cupboard (cabinet) frontal area needs to have an ‘’open area’’, of adequate size, so as to allow for ‘’free flowing’’ air movement.

(I have a vac hook-up, on the lower back side of my unit--- while sucking up the sawdust from inside the cabinet, as well as pulling in outside air thru the open frontal area, so as to provide air circulation for the motor.

Motors generate heat---over-heating will result in premature motor failure.

(A viable reason why I’d drive my English made sports car fast.  Some ‘’Peelers’’, on a bicycle, just didn’t have a sense of humor).

Michael,

375 watts is approx. 1/2 hp. Divide watts by volts to get amps (375/110=3.4)

I don't know if you have Rikon Tools in the UK, but they are worth your consideration. My 18", 2.5 hp saw will handle blades from 1/4 to 1 1/4. I chose the size because I occasionally resaw wider boards for book matching. I feel a little silly crosscutting pen blanks with it, though.


michael evans said:

Good morning Ken, at least it is here in the UK.Ken tried your tip with the masking tape i think its a marked improvement.Allthough i have set her up with a 1/2" blade at the moment .I have on order a 1/4" 10tpi.I mainly cut plexiglass and small trim cuts in timber with the bandsaw ,hence why not really had a issue with curves before .Should have got you to road test it first Ken ha ha.The machine is a 10" with a 375 watt motor what that equates to in amps i have no idea not alot i suspect.After reading your comments on the ryobi i think my machine maybe a little under powered.It does get bogged down with anything over 1" thick.Will try with the new blade and let you know .The bladerunner looks a interesting piece of kit, kinda a hybreed i am not aware of anything over here similiar.If all as fails i will be looking in to replaceing my bandsaw for something with more power and of better quality.I have seen some Delta bandsaws in action on the internet look to perform so much better than mine maybe i have got a piece of rubbish thanks for your replys MICK.

Thanks HUGH will do some research into rikon let you know.

Sorry Ken i think i gave you the wrong end of the stick.The router cabinet i made is purely for storage of my hand held routers on the wall.The only way to go with a english sportscar Ken [fast]my brother used to have a passion for MG/S .He completely rebuilt his own with wire wheels, overdrive box,and primrose yellow paintjob.It was beautiful and the number plate was SIN 23 he nearly wept when he had to sell it for a more practical but mundane family hatch.[ Poor boy]
 
Ken Darga said:

Mike,

What’s strange about cutting Plexiglas today?

 

Re ‘’Enclosed’’ cupboard---

The router cupboard (cabinet) frontal area needs to have an ‘’open area’’, of adequate size, so as to allow for ‘’free flowing’’ air movement.

(I have a vac hook-up, on the lower back side of my unit--- while sucking up the sawdust from inside the cabinet, as well as pulling in outside air thru the open frontal area, so as to provide air circulation for the motor.

Motors generate heat---over-heating will result in premature motor failure.

(A viable reason why I’d drive my English made sports car fast.  Some ‘’Peelers’’, on a bicycle, just didn’t have a sense of humor).

Hi Hugh it looks like we do not have rikon bandsaws here .However there is a very similiar looking bandsaw here made in the UK called Record Power.
 
michael evans said:

Thanks HUGH will do some research into rikon let you know.

PS---

A fish tank aireator---can be rigged up.

A suitable length section of metal tubing, fitted to the flex tubing, of the aireator. 

Secure the fitting to a suitable object on the band saw---ex a spring clamp to the vertical adjusting mechanism, with the blower output close to the cutting line, so as to blow away the chips.

Ken Darga said:

Hi Mike,

>>>... (Use a small blower to blow away the particles.  A compressor with a small nozzle and low psi output works nicely;  akin to a 12V ball or tire inflator. .../p>

Michael,

When you install your new blade and have it tracking true and there's tension on it.  Turn your saw on and slowly let off of the tension until you start to see the blade flutter, after the flutter tighten the tension until the flutter stops plus 1/4 turn and your blade is tensioned perfectly.  Always remember to knock the tension off when you're done using your saw to save blade life etc. 

For cool blocks or bearings for clearance, use a dollar bill to get your gap between your bearings or blocks. 

Check your table for square to the blade.

Hope this helps.

Thanks justin i will give it a go have a great weekend.

Let me know how it goes

Thanks everybody on badsaw breakage comments.  Puts my mind to ease a little bit.

Ken - Thanks for advice on band saws.  It would be nice to try a saw out at the store before purchasing it. But I guess you can always return it if not satisfied.

In defense of my Ryobi, it is Model BS902.   I notice the new ones are BS903.  Again, it would be nice to try a new model out before buying.

My older Ryobi has 2.5 amp motor (same power as new ones) and has never bogged down.  I resawed a 2x4 with it the other day. 

Funny thing is that when I first got it 10-15 years ago, I used it a few times and it sucked.  Just would not cut good. Dug it out of garage about 2 years ago.  Tried it again, and terrible.  Finally, thought to try new blade, and, a world of difference.  Cuts anything like a hot knife thru butter.

You're right, Home Depot does not have a good selection of blades.  I buy mine at Menards, good selection.  My Roybi takes a 59 1/4" blade, 1/8" to 3/8".  Common size blade, I think. 

My Grizzly is out of commison right now.  Screw broke in shaft holding bearing for lower wheel.  I used it a few times, and now bearing is coming out  Got new parts from Grizzly..  It's -10 below zero today, good day to fix it.  $600 band saw broke within 1st year and $87 Ryobi still operating perfectly after ??? years. 

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