Kreg Kms 8000 track and stop kit

[Luke Troughton]

Hello All,
I am seeking some guidance. I just finished building my Miter Saw station and purchased the Kreg KMS 8000 track and stop kit. I should have the kit by the end of the week and was hoping to get a jump start on building the fence that the kit will attach to. I looked at the manual on line and I am completely lost. Is there anyway someone could send me some dummy proof plans? In theory i wouldn't think it would be that difficult. I am very good at looking at a set of plans and building exactly what it says following each step precisely. I know eventually I am going to have to stop relying so heavily on plans if I ever want to make stuff that I actually created. But unfortunately I haven't progressed to that point yet but I am making progress. I have included a picture of the exact miter bench that I built. I have a Dewalt DW716XPS if that helps. Between materials for the bench the Saw itself and now the KMS 8000 I am into this for a ton of money. Everything has come out perfect so far and I would hate to screw it up now. Really hoping someone can help me out.

Thanks in advance

Trout

[Glen S]

Nice. Is your stand level & solid? I would plywood the back with 3/4" ply to keep it rigid. Run the ply 4" up above the table & cap it off with a strip of hardwood. You can mount everything to the ply wood solidly.

[Luke Troughton]

Glen,
Thank you very much for taking the time to respond. Yes everything thing is level and pretty solid. InLike the idea of making it more solid and adding 3/4" ply to the back. But I don't think I am understanding everything completely. By cap it off with hardwood what do you mean. THe stand has a depth of 31". I went deaper than I had to incase i upgrade my saw to a slider style Saw. So the fence is a good 15.5" from the back edge. How would going above 4" help. Sorry I'm not getting it.

Trout

[Luke Troughton]

Here are some actual photos is that helps any.

[KregCS]

Luke, 

The issue is that every saw is going to have different measurements so its hard to give you an exact plan for your saw.  If you look in the instructions for the KMS8000, on the last page in the bottom left corner there is a sample plan of what you want your wing to look like.  This plan is designed based on the saw just sitting on top of a table.  You will need to make sure that this vertical piece is perpendicular to the work surface to make sure you will get accurate cuts.  

However, it appears from your picture that your saw will be recessed into the table which will negate the need for the bottom support as long as the top of your table sides are flush with the base of your saw.  Basically all you need is a vertical piece that is 2 1/4" above your table surface if it is flush with the saw.  This allows you the space you need to attach your top trak and have your stops work properly.  

Hopefully this will clear this up.  If you have any other questions please feel free to ask.  

[Luke Troughton]

Thanks KregCS. I think I get it. And I'm sure it will make more sense once it's right in front of me. I just need to be a little patient. So basically I just need some 3/4" MDF or something similar and a way to fasten it to the table. I'm thinking screwing it from underneath. Also 48" falls a little short of reaching the full length of each side. It looks like 24" is the smallest section of track that is sold. Do you guys sell anything smaller? And if not is it possible to cut a 2' section in half and use one half on one side and one half on the other?

Thanks,
Trout

[KregCS]

Luke, 

You can either fasten the fence section from the bottom or if you want you can make an L shaped piece so that you can screw that directly to the table top from above.  I know its not the easiest to screw from the bottom up into a vertical piece and not have the screw move some on you.  

Yes, you can cut down any of the pieces of the trak since it is made from aluminum.  You can use a bandsaw or chopsaw that has a metal cutting blade or you can use a simple hacksaw as long as you make the cut square.  Sand down the edges so its not sharp and you are good to go.  

[Luke Troughton]

Not sure why I didn't think of the L shape. THAT WOULD BE PERECT!!!! It's these simple solutions that once presented to me makes me say " why did I think of that?" Once again thanks everyone for walking me through this. I look forward to posting some picks of the finished product. One last question. Any suggestions on what I should use as a finish? Looking for something simple. I have used linseed oil on similar projects in the past. All I want to do is make it so things slide smoothly on it and have it resistant to glue and such.

[Glen S]

Hi Luke. To cap it off I just meant to glue on a strip of hardwood to cover the plywood edge is all. I can't wait to see what you end up with.

PS-- That's way better than what I have. My saw sets on an old rolling tool cart my FIL gave me. I use Harbor Freight roller stands for supports on longer stock. I have no room for what you've built.

[Luke Troughton]

Here are some updated photos!!!! Thanks to everyone's help things are coming right along. I have decided to go all out. Kreg shiuld pay me as a Kreg rep!!! On top is the kreg precision track and stop system. I have one side pretty much installed. Each side is gojng to have a swing stop and a solid stop. If you can see underneath the actual miter bench are two roll out carts. On top of one side I am going to build in the Kreg router table top with a triton 3.25 router mounted underneath. The other side is going to have a flip top with the kreg k5 pocket hole jig. Plus on the sides are built in shelves for plenty of storage. I thought my garage was going to be plenty big enough. 24'x24' sure seems like a lot of space but I amazed on how quickly it's filling up. This has created a ton of room for me. The router table is going to be tricky. Haven't figured everything out yet. Having issues because I didn't account for the router fence needing an additional 4.5". I was planning on just cutting out an exact hole for the router table. Wish I would have know that before. I bought the router table today and the dealer that sold it to me was nice enough to point that out. Any suggestions would be much appreciated. Once again thanks to everyone that's helped out so far.

P.S. yes this has cost me a ton of money. But it's my only hobby. I am far from rich. And I have had to work a ton of overtime to pay for all this stiuff. But once everything is done I'm sure it's going to be worth it!!!!