How to keep panels from moving while fastening

[Michael Gibbons]

Other than the clamp that you have to buy,,is there a way to keep a panel from sliding while driving a screw? Occasionally, the board may move about a 1/32nd of an inch,

[Ken Darga]

The workpiece WILL MOVE---

it needs to be "clamped securely" to a flat stable surface.

If you only have a few pieces to clamp in place, perhaps you could use a suitable "C" clamp, with just enough pressure to keep the workpiece from movement. 

NOTE:  you want the clamp-face to be on the finished side of the workpiece.

You could try using a welders type clamp, but I'd suggest using a padding under the faceplate, to prevent marring and slippage of the workpiece.

Padding that I've used for similar tasks, was cut to size from an old inner tube, cut to fit the face of the clamp pad---apply contact cement to hold the face pad in place.

The inner tube (rubber material) is effective---sometimes you can get it free-of-charge, from a tire shop or bike shop.

You can find welders clamps at garage sales, and the like.

Check with some nearby weld shops---they may have something that they'll part with.

A new one will cost $25 - $40.

Some welders clamps only have a small face plate---look for those with a large faceplate, or you could weld a large dia thick washer to the clamp faceplate.  After welding the washer, grind or file-down the excess weld buildup, so it's not protruding beyond the face of the clamp pad.

My advice, bite the bullet---get the recommended clamp(s).

The Kreg Klamps include a larger faceplate, and feature a removable pad.

It'll save you the hassel and reduce the problems you'll encounter with movement/creapage.

If you need only one clamp, get the model with the deep throat---it'll suffice better for extended reach.

I've seen some guys try to take short cuts, and spend more money in traveling costs, and such---

and getting something that didn't produce satisfactory results.

BTW---some cheap clamps are knuckle busters---

and they'll draw blood.

If you go that route, get a box of bandaids and a bottle of liquid "newskin".

"been there, done that"

[michael evans]

HI Michael easy and inexpensive way to stop a piece moving ,is to screw down some old bits of timber to a table a ninety degree angle is a good idea use a square to make the ninety degrees. Or if a awkward shape simply screw down scraps round the perimeter of that shape ,then when your done unscrew the scraps hope this helps.

[Ken Darga]

Mike,

FYI

I made up some 1x6 panels yesterday---edge joined using pocket hole joinery---

clamped the panels to a flat working surface, using "F" style padded clamps.

RESULTS:  Satisfactory---

panels layed flat---no movement---

no offset or step.

[Jay Boutwell]

Hi Micahel ,  a panel moving 1/32 of an inch is nothing to worry about in woodworking as the wood is going to move more than that much due to humidity and moisture content changes.  What is dead on one day will move to not being dead on the next even when pinned.  When you look at what 1/32 of an inch is that is .0313 when rounded off or actually .03125.  It is doubtful that most woodworking machines will even cut that accurate anyway. 

[linda dill]

On a panel glue up, I never use the my kreg clamps.  I use a little bit of salt on the glue.  I use my regular (f style, bar, or pipe clamps) and I allow the glue to set up for about 10 minutes before using the screws.  Eliminated all movement for me.  I use the kreg clamps for butt joints and face framing along with the salt and 10 minute set up time.