Ridgid R4512 Hybrid Table Saw

[Stephanie H]

I am looking for input from anyone that has an opinion about the above table saw.  I have been using the boyfriends Delta Unisaw...which is a dream.  I am now looking to get a table saw for myself.  I have been looking at the Hybrid's.  They seem to be a good size.  Not too big and not too small.  The price seems fair and I have read mostly great reviews.  But...more information is always better.  I want this to be a one time purchase with no regrets.  Thank you in advance.

[Ken Darga]

Check and adjust the saw table so the saw blade plate is parallel to the left-side miter slot.

Adjust the rip fence so it's parallel to the left-side miter slot.

Adjust the miter gauge so it's 90 degrees to the FLAT on the saw blade plate.

When making checks and adjustments, use the same left-side miter slot as the reference plane.

Use an accurate 12" combination square to perform these checks/adjustments.

The blade needs to be "DEAD-ON" for accuracy.

Another useful measuring tool in the shop is an accurate triangle, such as a drafting triangle and

automotive leaf type feeler gauges.

A Rocklers Heavy-Duty acrylic woodworkers 45-90-45 triangle---it is thicker than a standard drafting triangle.

This tool also works great for fine tuning a table saw and miter gauge.

[Stephanie H]

Don,

Long story short.  I have only had this saw for a few years.  Always used the stock blade.  Learning more about woodworking. I wanted better blades, especially for cutting plywood.  The tear-out drives me crazy.  I bought some Diablo/Freud thin kerf blades, after reading they help your saw run easier and not so hard on the motor.  I also bought a zero clearance plate.  With that combo, the wood seriously binds up when trying to run it through the saw.  Yesterday while working on some carts I am making for the tools in garage, I got sick of fighting it and put back the stock plate and a thick blade.  Now everything it happy.  I am very frustrated.  A lot of money was spent on those blades/zero clearance plate.  So for now, I guess I use the blue tape method until I get the patience to try and figure out what is wrong.  Is there a way to find out of the thin blades I bought are not straight?  I did use the feeler gauges and the backside was off compared to the front side.  Everything before my "upgrades" was all square from when the saw was put together.
 
Don Foley said:

Stephanie,

When you say the blade sits crooked do you mean its not parallel to the openings in the plate?  I have the Craftsman brother to the rigid saw you have, and while not having any burning mark issues, I have noticed recently I'm not getting accurate 90 degree cuts.  The difference is slight, but enough to bother me.  I know the blade and the rip fence are parallel, I guess I better check the blade to miter slot alignment.  Oh and I have readjusted the miter gauge to be 90 degrees from the blade, but still having a slight variation.  Let me know what you find the issue to be and I'll do the same.  I ask because I wonder if your saw is more out of alignment causing the burning which I'm not getting yet (but may start if I don't correct it now).

Don

[Ken Darga]

Stephanie,

Adjusting the blade height too high can contribute to some problems.

I adjust the blade height, so that about 1/4" of the blade tooth is showing above the workpiece surface.

[Stephanie H]

Ken Darga said:

Check and adjust the saw table so the saw blade plate is parallel to the left-side miter slot.

Adjust the rip fence so it's parallel to the left-side miter slot.

Adjust the miter gauge so it's 90 degrees to the FLAT on the saw blade plate.

When making checks and adjustments, use the same left-side miter slot as the reference plane.

Use an accurate 12" combination square to perform these checks/adjustments.

The blade needs to be "DEAD-ON" for accuracy.

Another useful measuring tool in the shop is an accurate triangle, such as a drafting triangle and

automotive leaf type feeler gauges.

A Rocklers Heavy-Duty acrylic woodworkers 45-90-45 triangle---it is thicker than a standard drafting triangle.

This tool also works great for fine tuning a table saw and miter gauge.

[Stephanie H]

Ken,

I do believe my combo square is ok.  I do have the feeler gauges.  But I can not find the Rockler triangle you reference.  I am all about having the correct tools for the job. 

[Stephanie H]

That is about how high I use my blade also.

Ken Darga said:

Stephanie,

Adjusting the blade height too high can contribute to some problems.

I adjust the blade height, so that about 1/4" of the blade tooth is showing above the workpiece surface.

[Ken Darga]

Stephanie,

Rockler triangle #33486---the 45-90-45 degree model.

It features very fine line markings.

http://www.rockler.com/woodworker-s-triangles

What make/model of combo square do you have?

Check it for accuracy, in all 4 diffent head positions.

(I've found some variations in some less costly models).

Place the combo square on a metal surface table---use a very fine scribed line.

View the scribed lines with a magnifier.  If the scribed lines do not follow the scribed line, then the tool is off, and you won't otain accuracy.

Starrett is the best---most suitable for the machinist and tool maker trades.

Craftsman machinist 12" combo is very good.

Stanley #46-123, die-cast handle (hi-vis yellow), 12" blade, made it England.  The best quality for contractor grade and home shop use.

Stephanie H said:

Ken,

I do believe my combo square is ok.  I do have the feeler gauges.  But I can not find the Rockler triangle you reference.  I am all about having the correct tools for the job. 

[Stephanie H]

The combo is an Empire.  Probably picked it up from Lowes or Home Depot. 
 
Stephanie H said:

Ken Darga said:

Check and adjust the saw table so the saw blade plate is parallel to the left-side miter slot.

Adjust the rip fence so it's parallel to the left-side miter slot.

Adjust the miter gauge so it's 90 degrees to the FLAT on the saw blade plate.

When making checks and adjustments, use the same left-side miter slot as the reference plane.

Use an accurate 12" combination square to perform these checks/adjustments.

The blade needs to be "DEAD-ON" for accuracy.

Another useful measuring tool in the shop is an accurate triangle, such as a drafting triangle and

automotive leaf type feeler gauges.

A Rocklers Heavy-Duty acrylic woodworkers 45-90-45 triangle---it is thicker than a standard drafting triangle.

This tool also works great for fine tuning a table saw and miter gauge.

[Tim Grace]

This is one that I looked at when I bought my Delta 36-725 (the Bosch 4100 was another I looked at).  What made the difference for me was the little bit of extra depth of cut with the Delta.  The fact Lowe's gave me an extra 10% off just sweetened the deal.  I think you will be happy with the 4512.  ZC & dado inserts will be easier with the Ridgid as the plate opening is a little smaller.  There does seem to be a lot more owners of the Ridgid than there is of the Delta, so more information & accessories are available.

[Stephanie H]

So this is what I figured out/found out regarding the thin kerf blade I purchased.  I removed it.  Put back in a standard blade.  Checked for it to see if it was parallel.  Found it was off, more so when the blade is completely raised vs cutting height.  Took the back panel to the saw off, loosened the bolts that allow me to adjusted the blade assembly.  Put everything back together.  Put the thin kerf blade back on.  Still did not work right.  Put the regular blade back on and it is much much better now.  I still get a bit of burn at times, but nothing compared to what I had.  Might be user error in learning how to feed the wood through.  I have not tried any of the other blades I have...yet.  I  did use my feeler gauge to check and I can not remember the numbers, but basically cut the difference from the front part of the blade to the back in half.  Now I would like to find a good and not expensive pair of calipers, similar to the ones posted in the picture by Ken.

[Ken Darga]

To make accurate measurements, the blade should be fully raised, when checking that the blade is parallel to the miter slot.

#1- DISCONNECT ALL POWER TO THE MACHINE, BEFORE PROCEEDING

a. Make a pencil/pen mark on the saw blade blank, NEAR a saw tooth or near the gullet, NOT on it.

b. Rotate the saw blade so the mark is nearest the front of the saw, and visible, just above the table surface

c. measure the distance from the mark on the saw blade to the miter slot, (the vertical edge nearest the blade)---

note this measurement.

d. rotate the saw blade toward the rear, so the mark is now toward the rear of the table saw, and just above the table surface---note this measurement.

NOTE---the tip of the measuring device, just so it touches the object.

For Fine-tuned ACCURACY

I'd target the readings to be within .002/.003".

If not, proceed to adjust the table saw table.

Some may find that .005" is acceptable, or perhaps even .015/.020", whole others may find .032-.016" is close enough.

It all depends on what some define a "close enoug---this is depends on what your measuring/building and the accuracy needed.

[Jay Boutwell]

What scribed lines?????

Ken Darga said:

Stephanie,

Rockler triangle #33486---the 45-90-45 degree model.

It features very fine line markings.

http://www.rockler.com/woodworker-s-triangles

What make/model of combo square do you have?

Check it for accuracy, in all 4 diffent head positions.

(I've found some variations in some less costly models).

Place the combo square on a metal surface table---use a very fine scribed line.

View the scribed lines with a magnifier.  If the scribed lines do not follow the scribed line, then the tool is off, and you won't otain accuracy.

Starrett is the best---most suitable for the machinist and tool maker trades.

Craftsman machinist 12" combo is very good.

Stanley #46-123, die-cast handle (hi-vis yellow), 12" blade, made it England.  The best quality for contractor grade and home shop use.

Stephanie H said:

Ken,

I do believe my combo square is ok.  I do have the feeler gauges.  But I can not find the Rockler triangle you reference.  I am all about having the correct tools for the job.