New Members: Please Introduce Yourself!

[KregRep]

Welcome to the Kreg Owners' Community!
 
This thread is the best place to introduce yourself and let other Community members get to know you. Please include your name, where you're from, your experience building with wood, why you joined this Community, and any other interesting facts about yourself. Also, feel free to share links to your blog, personal website, etc.

Once you've introduced yourself, be sure to check out Helpful Tips for New Members.

We hope that you find great use and enjoyment from the Kreg Owners' Community!

-KregRep

[Jay Boutwell]

The use of gorilla glue is not the best glue for fine joinerey of such things as cabinets and most furniture.  It is too hard to contol the glue as it expands and sometimes even pushes the joint apart.  The better is a glue like titebond as it is easily cleaned up.  Gorilla glue is a polyurthane based glue that reacts to moisture and speeds up the cure.   Gorilla glue is a great glue for out door projects where moisture is a concern. 

 

Pocket hole joinery is not always the strongest joint to put in a project where there is alot of twisting or rocking motion such as would be expected in a chair or bench.  The mortise and tenon is still the strongest joint for such projects.  I also would not use the pocket hole to build the main structure of such things and bunk beds or any structure that is going to be exposed to an excessive amount of weight and movement.

 The pocket hole is a great joint for such items as cabinet construction as long as you can hide the joint,  It is the best method to build face frames and other butt joinery as the joint is fast to make but is only as strong as the bite of the screw into its mating surface.

 

 I am basing this on long years of experience

[Kelly Drumm]

Thanks for the info Jay.

[Mike Atencio]

I was referring to the Gorilla Glue for wood. It doesn't foam and expand like it's darker colored version. As for joinery, I agree that for cabinets and the like where stresses aren't a concern, pocket screws work great. Mortise and tenon is the right choice except that it takes more time, different tools and skill to make these joints. Pocket jigs speed up the process for most projects unless you are building spindle chairs et al. I work with cabinets and the like. 

Jay Boutwell said:

The use of gorilla glue is not the best glue for fine joinerey of such things as cabinets and most furniture.  It is too hard to contol the glue as it expands and sometimes even pushes the joint apart.  The better is a glue like titebond as it is easily cleaned up.  Gorilla glue is a polyurthane based glue that reacts to moisture and speeds up the cure.   Gorilla glue is a great glue for out door projects where moisture is a concern. 

 

Pocket hole joinery is not always the strongest joint to put in a project where there is alot of twisting or rocking motion such as would be expected in a chair or bench.  The mortise and tenon is still the strongest joint for such projects.  I also would not use the pocket hole to build the main structure of such things and bunk beds or any structure that is going to be exposed to an excessive amount of weight and movement.

 The pocket hole is a great joint for such items as cabinet construction as long as you can hide the joint,  It is the best method to build face frames and other butt joinery as the joint is fast to make but is only as strong as the bite of the screw into its mating surface.

 

 I am basing this on long years of experience

[Jay Boutwell]

Well the only gorilla glue that I know that will hold anything substancial is the foaming one.  The white gorilla glue is not used by me for the simple reason as on their own bottle they state:  "Not to be used on structual or load bearing" structures.  I know that titebond will work and does not have these restrictions.  I would not want to use an inferior glue to build anything when I know of a product that I know will do the job. 

 

If I read you comment correctly about joinery you sais traditional joinery and that includes mortise and tenon which is the traditional joinery.  I just wanted to be clear on what you were refering to. 
 
Mike Atencio said:

I was referring to the Gorilla Glue for wood. It doesn't foam and expand like it's darker colored version. As for joinery, I agree that for cabinets and the like where stresses aren't a concern, pocket screws work great. Mortise and tenon is the right choice except that it takes more time, different tools and skill to make these joints. Pocket jigs speed up the process for most projects unless you are building spindle chairs et al. I work with cabinets and the like. 

Jay Boutwell said:

The use of gorilla glue is not the best glue for fine joinerey of such things as cabinets and most furniture.  It is too hard to contol the glue as it expands and sometimes even pushes the joint apart.  The better is a glue like titebond as it is easily cleaned up.  Gorilla glue is a polyurthane based glue that reacts to moisture and speeds up the cure.   Gorilla glue is a great glue for out door projects where moisture is a concern. 

 

Pocket hole joinery is not always the strongest joint to put in a project where there is alot of twisting or rocking motion such as would be expected in a chair or bench.  The mortise and tenon is still the strongest joint for such projects.  I also would not use the pocket hole to build the main structure of such things and bunk beds or any structure that is going to be exposed to an excessive amount of weight and movement.

 The pocket hole is a great joint for such items as cabinet construction as long as you can hide the joint,  It is the best method to build face frames and other butt joinery as the joint is fast to make but is only as strong as the bite of the screw into its mating surface.

 

 I am basing this on long years of experience

[Mike Atencio]

Ken, Nice to meet you. I think it's a matter of choice. Both are excellent glues and have different products for specific jobs. I was surprised that many people thought Gorilla Glue only had the expanding glue but they have regular wood glue which I use. I do use the expanding glue for things that have a lot of space in them such as a kicked in door jamb which was splintered around the lock and up the frame. I used the glue on it and pieced the jamb together thinking it was a temporary fix but my house was attacked again and the same guy tried to kick the same door in. This time, the busted door jamb held and he was arrested because it took too long to break in. Gorilla Glue gets my vote just for that amazing outcome so, again, it's a matter of choice. I wouldn't use the expanding glue in a joinery though because it pushes the joint apart after you glue it. Regular Gorilla glue for wood working is what I use for cabinets and the like. Hope this clears the air a little. Mike

Ken Darga said:

Mike,

What's the advantage of Gorilla Glue vs Titebond???

Mike Atencio said:

>>>... especially when used with Gorilla Glue. br/>

[Jay Boutwell]

Mike, in clearing the air, Like I stated in my reply back to you that you did not address about the gorilla glue.  I have a bottle in my shop that I do not use so know that there is a white gorilla glue however like i explained it even states on its own bottle that it is not to be use for "structural or load bearing" .  Does this not refer to it's strength? In woodworking most things are structual  I also know that it has a short shelf life and therefore more expensive than a glue that I know will work well.  The other statement that you made that I remarked about was that you said that the pocket screw joint was "stronger  than traditional" joints and especially if you used gorilla glue.  Since this is a learning site I  want to voice my point about the joinery and my opinion about the glue.  

Mike Atencio said:

Ken, Nice to meet you. I think it's a matter of choice. Both are excellent glues and have different products for specific jobs. I was surprised that many people thought Gorilla Glue only had the expanding glue but they have regular wood glue which I use. I do use the expanding glue for things that have a lot of space in them such as a kicked in door jamb which was splintered around the lock and up the frame. I used the glue on it and pieced the jamb together thinking it was a temporary fix but my house was attacked again and the same guy tried to kick the same door in. This time, the busted door jamb held and he was arrested because it took too long to break in. Gorilla Glue gets my vote just for that amazing outcome so, again, it's a matter of choice. I wouldn't use the expanding glue in a joinery though because it pushes the joint apart after you glue it. Regular Gorilla glue for wood working is what I use for cabinets and the like. Hope this clears the air a little. Mike

Ken Darga said:

Mike,

What's the advantage of Gorilla Glue vs Titebond???

Mike Atencio said:

>>>... especially when used with Gorilla Glue. br/>

[James Makishima]

thanks Mike for the welcome

[Damian Simpson]

Hi Everyone, My name is Damian and i'm a 30 from Australia. I recently purchased a Kreg jig and had a little fun with it already. I want to get a little more serious about building so can't wait to get some guidance from everyone here with a little more experience.

Looking forward to making discussions.

Cheers

Damo

[Jack Haskins, Jr.]

Jay, my question to anyone is why would anyone even buy a glue that states "not for load bearing or heavy use" or any other such statement? It's good they say that if it's true so you don't use if for something that needs a strong glue.  But you can get great, strong glues that will hold about anything and the price isn't much higher usually. So even if I need to hold up a 5 lb item, why use glue only rated for 5 or 10 lbs? Why not just have the one glue that will hold 1000 lbs? I think overkill is great UNLESS the overkill is far more expensive. If Gorilla glue has two glues, one light duty and one heavy duty, and the cost is very close or the same why would anyone buy the light duty stuff? Or better yet, why would anyone make it?  I feel the same about everything. You can measure anything on a 1-10 scale. If my circular saw only cuts plywood and it is rated at a strength level of 4, I want a say rated at 6 or 7. That way the saw is never strained and will last longer IMO.  Just my thoughts I guess.

I just realized this is the section for introductions. I just started a thread asking about wood glues a day or two ago and was thinking this was that thread. I've been on other forums where we would stray off the subject from time to time. Guess this place does that also. :)

Jay Boutwell said:

Mike, in clearing the air, Like I stated in my reply back to you that you did not address about the gorilla glue.  I have a bottle in my shop that I do not use so know that there is a white gorilla glue however like i explained it even states on its own bottle that it is not to be use for "structural or load bearing" .  Does this not refer to it's strength? In woodworking most things are structual  I also know that it has a short shelf life and therefore more expensive than a glue that I know will work well.  The other statement that you made that I remarked about was that you said that the pocket screw joint was "stronger  than traditional" joints and especially if you used gorilla glue.  Since this is a learning site I  want to voice my point about the joinery and my opinion about the glue.  

Mike Atencio said:

Ken, Nice to meet you. I think it's a matter of choice. Both are excellent glues and have different products for specific jobs. I was surprised that many people thought Gorilla Glue only had the expanding glue but they have regular wood glue which I use. I do use the expanding glue for things that have a lot of space in them such as a kicked in door jamb which was splintered around the lock and up the frame. I used the glue on it and pieced the jamb together thinking it was a temporary fix but my house was attacked again and the same guy tried to kick the same door in. This time, the busted door jamb held and he was arrested because it took too long to break in. Gorilla Glue gets my vote just for that amazing outcome so, again, it's a matter of choice. I wouldn't use the expanding glue in a joinery though because it pushes the joint apart after you glue it. Regular Gorilla glue for wood working is what I use for cabinets and the like. Hope this clears the air a little. Mike

Ken Darga said:

Mike,

What's the advantage of Gorilla Glue vs Titebond???

Mike Atencio said:

>>>... especially when used with Gorilla Glue. br/>

[Dale Drizneris]

Hey all;

My name is Dale and I live in Ga. I'm 69 years old and retired carpenter. I like to work with wood and think Kreg jig is rely cool. 

Life is GOOD!

[Jorge Gonzalez]

Hi, I'm Jorge Gzz, I live in Escobedo, Nuevo Leon, Mexico, I am a proactive apprentice and although I've done some things in wood, I'm starting with classes in carpentry because I want a lot of truth to learn, I really like this site because I really what they do is always useful and good tips from you then I'll take a picture of a bank that did to my dressing room and my kitchen, sorry for my English, so long ago that I do not practice

[Sheryl Blessing]

Hi Everyone!  I'm Sheryl, and I'm excited to be part of this community.  I'm currently in Tacoma, but I'm originally from Hawaii.  I have not really worked with a lot of wood project, but have already started two projects since I've owned my Kreg DIY kit.  I look forward to posting some of those projects on here, and checking out the other projects you are doing.  I'm very impressed with what I've seen and you all inspire me:)