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I use my jig for about every project.  And for the most part the self tapping screws grip and hold tight.  But on just about every project I have at least one screw that won't tighten and seems to spin loose in the hole.  I've tried removing it and using a different screw but it does the same.  I'm not sure what my problem is.  Anyone else have this happen?  I check all the holes and make sure there isn't loose saw dust or particles in there. 

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Chris,

Remove the screw, install wood tooth picks with a little glue, into the stripped hole---

trim flush and reinstall the screw.

We all have this problem.  Like Ken said, a toothpick or a matchstick and a little glue, and you are good to go.  Sometimes wood has weak spots which don't hold the screw thread.  Sometimes backing off a notch on your driver torque can also help -- and I am assuming you are using a cordless screw driver with torque settings.

Matchsticks are made of soft wood.

Toothpicks are generally made from birch (a hardwood).

A firmer grip will be achieved using hardwood.

A single matchstick may fill the hole, and the screw point will likely go to one side,

resulting in the screw being not centered.

When inserting few tooth picks in the hold, the screw point will most likely be more centered.

(Using three tooth picks, round or square, would be ideal).

The toothpick method is the most effective when loose screws are present in door hinges, strike plates, or the like.

A couple of questions first.  Is your project made from hard wood, or soft wood, as each uses a different type of screw.  It sounds to me like you may be using the wrong type of screw and it is stripping out the hole and then will not tighten. 

I've been using matchstick like shims in softwood door jambs for decades. 

Perhaps it is I who have the loose screws.

Ken Darga said:

Matchsticks are made of soft wood.  Toothpicks are generally made from birch (a hardwood).  A firmer grip will be achieved using hardwood.

A single matchstick may fill the hole, and the screw point will likely go to one side, resulting in the screw being not centered.  When inserting few tooth picks in the hold, the screw point will most likely be more centered.  (Using three tooth picks, round or square, would be ideal).

The toothpick method is the most effective when loose screws are present in door hinges, strike plates, or the like.

I build with a lot of 2x4's and pine.  These fall into the soft wood category I think. 

Thanks for the help y'all.  I will do this on my next project.  I'm thinking it will be a dresser.  I saw a youtube video demonstrating the Kreg magnetic drawer installer things.  Awesome. 

Rick,

Generally, it's the screw in the wood, thats ''loose''---

and not providing a ''firm" grip.

Adding a small amount (a ''droplet'') of CA ''thick" adhesive will help.

I too have a used match-sticks, but found the tooth-picks worked better, with smaller size screws,

#8 and smaller.  

With 1/4 and larger lag screws, a dowel worked good. (Drill a pilot hole in the center of the dowel).



Rick said:

I've been using matchstick like shims in softwood door jambs for decades. 

Perhaps it is I who have the loose screws.

Yes, dowels are especially good when the screw center needs to be relocated slightly.

Ken Darga said:

With 1/4 and larger lag screws, a dowel worked good. (Drill a pilot hole in the center of the dowel).

Hi all

I tend to drive in at a lower torque on my cordless driver then final tighten by hand so you can feel it home. 

                                                  all the best Roy

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