Ideas and Advice for Painting and Sealing End Grain in 2x4 Furniture

[NickM]

My daughter and I built a garden bench using 2x4 and 1x4 lumber. Came out nice considering it was my/our first Kreg project.

Now, suggestions, recommendations and ideas on painting and sealing the end grain, especially the legs.

Thanks in advance!

 

BTW: I have no business buying a Ridgid 12" sliding dual compound miter saw, but I did! Picked it up at HD for...drum roll...$340. I couldn't resist.

[Ken Darga]

I'd use an oil based sealer---

thin the first coat, so as to get a deep penetration of the sealer---

then followed by  an oil based transparent stain.

I prefer an oil based material over a latex base for exterior use.

[Jay Boutwell]

I'm in agreement with Ken on the sealing with oil based stain.  In addition, if it is sitting on concrete or other wet surface you could use glides under it similiar to those on the bottom of chair legs.  This would elevated it above a wet surface.

[James P. Cottingham]

Another option is to seal the ends with either epoxy or CA (super) glue. Brush on the epoxy or glue, let it dry overnight, then sand smooth. This also works if you want to paint or stain end-grain without the darker look you usually get from the end-grain soaking up more paint or stain than the rest of the wood.

[Ken Darga]

James,

Please define the advantages of using ''...epoxy or CA (super) glue...'',

on a ''garden'' bench.

James P. Cottingham said:

Another option is to seal the ends with either epoxy or CA (super) glue. Brush on the epoxy or glue, let it dry overnight, then sand smooth. This also works if you want to paint or stain end-grain without the darker look you usually get from the end-grain soaking up more paint or stain than the rest of the wood.

[James P. Cottingham]

Epoxy and CA glue will seal the ends preventing moisture from being soaked up into the wood. It won't deteriorate as easily as some sealers.

[Ken Darga]

James,

Thanks for your timely reply.

Here's my thoughts, on the matter.

Applying an epoxy over exterior wood, that inherently contains moisture, will trap/seal the moisture internally---

then upon exposure to warmer/hotter sunny summer weather, the moisture will escape---

drying occurs---

internal expansion pressures will cause the wood fibers to expand---

surface cracks will develop---

the moisture will be driven out toward the surface---

resulting in the epoxy coated surfaces developing cracks.

Akin to putting paint on wet wood---it'll develop cracks and peeling.

If epoxy could be make with ''elastic'' characteristics---

then it will work---

but until then---

I'd stick with the proven methods of sealing the wood with an oil based primer.

James P. Cottingham said:

Epoxy and CA glue will seal the ends preventing moisture from being soaked up into the wood. It won't deteriorate as easily as some sealers.

[James P. Cottingham]

The wood should be kiln dried first, yes. If the wood is that wet, you probably should let it dry before sealing it. Sealing the ends should allow any moisture to escape through the sides. Marine Epoxy has been used for decades to seal wood water craft. Not just on the ends but the entire boat. If you don't want to use CA glue or epoxy then don't but others do with great success.

[chris schnepf]

The best thing I have come across is to set outdoor furniture legs in a shallow can of epoxy.  It will draw it up in the grain like it draws water in.  Needless to say remove the container before the epoxy starts to set up.

[Rick]

I have used the "stick the leg in the bucket" treatment on wood ladders and saw horses used outdoors.  The end grain sucks up as much as it likes, then just wipe off the excess, and stick another leg in.  Turpentine / boiled linseed oil is good.  Preservatives like Sikkens or TWP might be better. 

[NickM]

It's well thought out replies like you folks have provided that makes being a member of the Kreg Community as great as it!

 

Thank friends!

 

Nick