Hide Away Ironing Board

[Tim E Daniels]

I was wanting to put in a Hide away ironing board, but they are very expensive for even the basic models.  So I decided to see what I could do for less.

I Sketchuped 2 models, one that fits in two stud bays, and one that fits in only one.
Here are pics of both.

They both have room for the iron to sit on a shelf or alternatively attach a mount for it.
The larger one has a power outlet, which can also be added to the smaller model.
They should both be able to fit a flexible lamp too.
Or alternatively they can have an outlet and lamp in one.
They both stick out of the wall in 2x4 construction, are flush in 2x6 construction and can be wall mounted if needed.

The larger cabinet is designed to fit an over the door ironing board and the frame of it can easily be clamped to the sides of the cabinet.

The smaller cabinet is designed to fit a folding tabletop ironing board with the board resting on the door.  I think that if you used a set of folding shelf brackets you could support the weight, upside down for the brackets but they're strong.

Let me know if this looks like a good project and I'll finalize the plans and put them up here.
Tim

[Sleddogdad]

I'd love to see the plans for the larger unit. Looks great!

[Kim C]

So glad to see these! I too had thought the quality ones were overpriced. I have a spot I have wanted to put one of these but am having trouble finding the hardware. Your suggestions are good ones. So the folding shelf brackets would fit on the "door" with the ironing board resting on it? I think I like the larger one better. Could the over the door ironing board attach permanently? And are these deep enough for the iron to store inside?
I say finish the plans! Great work!

[Tim E Daniels]

The iron, the light, your accessories, like spray starch, anti-static spray, and lint roller brushes would all fit in there.
An alternative to just setting your iron on one of the shelves or using a hanger is a silicone iron rest too.

The small cabinet is designed to use as a table. Now that I'm thinking about it, the door can open down if mounted higher on the wall or, if mounted near, or at the floor, the door can open up. Either way you'd be using the door as a table to rest the ironing board on it.

The large cabinet, the door swings out of the way and the "door mounted ironing board" would be mounted inside the large cavity, and mounted to the sides of the cabinet, using a standard plumbing strap like one of these or this. You can pick them up at any hardware store.

I haven't tested the quality of any of these components.
The design was for affordability, sadly I couldn't justify the cost of one of the pre-built ones or the high end stuff like Rockler had

Either cabinet is a 5.5" deep box with a back and can be face framed, trimmed, or just put a door on it, like these plans. you can even get fancy with the door, or put two doors on the large box. I designed them to use either 1 or 2 stud bays if studded in.

[KregRep]

Great project, Tim! Thanks for sharing. This project was featured on the Kreg Jig Facebook Fan Page!

[Kim C]

Thanks for answering the questions! I had looked at the prebuilt iron centers Rockler has and I just don't like to iron enough to justify the 200.00 - 400.00 price tag! Please update us on your plans!

[Tim E Daniels]

List follows for the large cabinet.
50 1" Kreg Screws
50 1 1/4" Kreg Screws
6 1x6x4 for the cabinet. ~$21.00
3 1x4x4 for the door. ~$6.00
1 sheet 1/2x4x4 Sanded Plywood for the back of the cabinet and the door panel. ~$18.00
1 Over the door ironing board. ~$28.00

Total cost not including the screws, as they are much cheaper when purchased in bulk.
Cabinet built with materials listed: ~$73.00

[Tim E Daniels]

[Tim E Daniels]

Cut your pieces as we work on them to ensure they all fit properly
Step 1 Build your box.
Parts C-1 and C-4
Put the pocket holes on the outside for the sides if you want to build it into a wall for a much cleaner look inside.
Put the pocket holes on the inside if you are surface mounting the box.
(the top and bottom holes would be rarely seen and thus can be on the outside)

Step 2 Divider and shelves.
Parts C-2 and C-6
Cut your divider and notch it for the support bar at the top.
Attach your divider into the cabinet, making the opening slightly wider than the ironing board frame.
Cut your shelves and mount them also, space the shelf height to fit your Iron and accessories.
If you are building in a regular electrical outlet, use a shelf piece for the front of the box.

Step 3 Attack the back.
Part S-1

[Tim E Daniels]

Step 4 Build the door frame.
Parts C-3 and C-5

Step 5 Attach the door panel.
Part S-2

Step 6 Attach the door to the cabinet.

[Tim E Daniels]

The cabinet measures 27"w x 48"h x 6 3/4"d and is 5 1/2"d inside.
If you build it into a wall, stud out the the same as a window, and you'll have 1/4" on all sides to shim it straight on the wall.
Mount it to the studs through the sides of the cabinet.
If you wall mount it, attach it to two studs through the top rail and also at the bottom of the cabinet.

[Bob Farmer]

Wow, this is awesome! Thanks for posting!

[Tim E Daniels]

If you plan on building with two doors, buy 2 extra 1x4x4 boards.

View with even doors. Alternatively, you can have 2 door sizes to close at the center divider, this would likely use a single board as the door for the thinner door, 1/2" wider than the opening.