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Be warned that MDF makes a LOT of dust! Stable and flat, but hard and dusty stuff. I try to avoid it for that reason.
Practice cuts on the cheapest wood you can find. But for actual projects, poplar is a good choice, typically not much more expensive than a decent pine. If you have an actual lumber supplier near you, check there. The quality of HD/Lowes plywood is pretty poor; it warps just looking at it. Or, try Menard's. Their USA made ply is fairly stable and not too expensive.
Geoff Simpson said:
I also agree with TOMBOY, if your re-store carries that kind of product it's an excellent source for inexpensive wood. I've even bought a couple of solid wood doors and ripped them down on a table saw to make shelving, etc.
Apart from that, MDF will give you a forgiving product with a smooth surface to work on. SPF (spruce/pine/fir) plywood is a good product for building dressers/cabinets or what have you. Not the kind of thing you would use if you were a craftsman (which i am not) but it will still provide a nice end-product with sufficient sanding.
Good luck and welcome to the world of wood-butchery ;)
If you are going to paint your wood, Pine.
If you are going to stain your wood like I do, I like to use red oak,( which mostly is all I can get in my area), or maybe poplar..
Hi All,
I've got the same question as Wenjie. Not sure what wood to use for a 8'x24"x22" TV Stand. I'm planning to make that into 2 4' boxes(side by side) since it'll be way too heavy otherwise. Is it possible to go hardwood on top and then use clear fir or something for the rest? I'd like to minimize weight but keep the same overall look. Planning to use a Java Gel stain or something dark on the whole piece after.
Thanks!
Anthony
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Hi. I'm wondering if anyone has used the Woodpecker Free Hand Guard for dust collection on their bench top router table during pattern routing. How effective is it? It's adaptable to any router table. Continue
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