Tags:
"A smaller kerf is always better...right?"
Not necessarily, The riving knife/splitter must be thinner than the kerf and thicker than the plate to keep the stock from binding or snagging. I'd been looking at some Amana blades but the plate was to thick. A thin kerf can also be more prone to vibration and need stabilizers. That said, I have a 4510 and a thin kerf is a good choice. I use the thin kerf Freud Fusion on mine. I haven't need stabilizers on it. The only thing I see is your riving knife/splitter needs to be dead bang on (it should be anyway) as it is also .093 thick (it's stamped on the side) so if it's out even few thousandths your stock can snag on it.
Thank you gentlemen...@John: I never knew that the riving knife thickness was stamped on the side...that is good to know.
Stan
Thank you gentlemen...@John: I never knew that the riving knife thickness was stamped on the side...that is good to know.
Stan
Hi Stanley, I am a big fan of Forrest saw blades near 20 years now using them exclusively in my shop. I have found that they perform well under stressful cutting. I use the .125 tooth finding them to last longer and give better overall performance in the cutting than the thin kerf blade. One of the reasons for this is the actual tooth width having more carbide and metal on the cutting tooth and thus can with stand more heat generated by the cutting of the material. True the thin kerf saves more lumber but not enough to justify the difference.
The thin kerf will benefit an under powered saw. The wider kerf will actually require more power to cut material however in the larger powered saw they perform the best. Heat causes metal fatigue as well as the flexing of the blade during the cutting and when making rip after rip they become very hot. The more metal the more cutting it will take to heat up the blade. I have a couple thin kerf Forrest blades in my supply cabinet of which I most likely will not mount on the saw because of this.
The blade of my choice is a Forrest 40 tooth combination of which gives me "glue up off the saw " performance in even the toughest of woods including thoes such as hickory, oak and maples as well as the more greasy woods including several exotic woods that I use for inlay work. They also work quite well in the mdf and mdo man made sheets goods but since they are abrassive will take the edge off of any cutting tool it is exposed to.
In my opinion a Forrest blade is a great choice for any saw.
I can see your point Jay - especially if I was using a "beefer" saw...but since I am going to be using a Ridgid r4510 (see URL below...it contains pictures at the bottom of the page) would I be safer uisng the thin kerf blade??
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/new-ridgid-r4510-portable-table-...
Jay Boutwell said:
Hi Stanley, I am a big fan of Forrest saw blades near 20 years now using them exclusively in my shop. I have found that they perform well under stressful cutting. I use the .125 tooth finding them to last longer and give better overall performance in the cutting than the thin kerf blade. One of the reasons for this is the actual tooth width having more carbide and metal on the cutting tooth and thus can with stand more heat generated by the cutting of the material. True the thin kerf saves more lumber but not enough to justify the difference.
The thin kerf will benefit an under powered saw. The wider kerf will actually require more power to cut material however in the larger powered saw they perform the best. Heat causes metal fatigue as well as the flexing of the blade during the cutting and when making rip after rip they become very hot. The more metal the more cutting it will take to heat up the blade. I have a couple thin kerf Forrest blades in my supply cabinet of which I most likely will not mount on the saw because of this.
The blade of my choice is a Forrest 40 tooth combination of which gives me "glue up off the saw " performance in even the toughest of woods including thoes such as hickory, oak and maples as well as the more greasy woods including several exotic woods that I use for inlay work. They also work quite well in the mdf and mdo man made sheets goods but since they are abrassive will take the edge off of any cutting tool it is exposed to.
In my opinion a Forrest blade is a great choice for any saw.
I can see your point Jay - especially if I was using a "beefer" saw...but since I am going to be using a Ridgid r4510 (see URL below...it contains pictures at the bottom of the page) would I be safer uisng the thin kerf blade??
http://www.woodworkingtalk.com/f24/new-ridgid-r4510-portable-table-...
Jay Boutwell said:Hi Stanley, I am a big fan of Forrest saw blades near 20 years now using them exclusively in my shop. I have found that they perform well under stressful cutting. I use the .125 tooth finding them to last longer and give better overall performance in the cutting than the thin kerf blade. One of the reasons for this is the actual tooth width having more carbide and metal on the cutting tooth and thus can with stand more heat generated by the cutting of the material. True the thin kerf saves more lumber but not enough to justify the difference.
The thin kerf will benefit an under powered saw. The wider kerf will actually require more power to cut material however in the larger powered saw they perform the best. Heat causes metal fatigue as well as the flexing of the blade during the cutting and when making rip after rip they become very hot. The more metal the more cutting it will take to heat up the blade. I have a couple thin kerf Forrest blades in my supply cabinet of which I most likely will not mount on the saw because of this.
The blade of my choice is a Forrest 40 tooth combination of which gives me "glue up off the saw " performance in even the toughest of woods including thoes such as hickory, oak and maples as well as the more greasy woods including several exotic woods that I use for inlay work. They also work quite well in the mdf and mdo man made sheets goods but since they are abrassive will take the edge off of any cutting tool it is exposed to.
In my opinion a Forrest blade is a great choice for any saw.
I just love this forum!!! Thanks again Jay!!
For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST.
I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters. What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much. Thanks.Continue
Started by Patrick Halinski in Kreg Jig® Operation Dec 30, 2023.
Hi All.....I have the 35mm Kreg Jig hinge drill guide. The guide is great for 35mm Hinge Cups, but I have a speciality 40MM hinge cup to drill.Has anyone adapted the Kreg guide to work with 40mm Forsner drill bits? Or have a guide that works…Continue
Started by Ed Anderson in Beginners' Zone Oct 3, 2023.
I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.
I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.
First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…
ContinuePosted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm
Several months ago, I purchased the Kreg K4MS so that I could build the Lego Table as outlined on the companion "buildsomething" web site which exclusively uses pocket hole construction. I have considerable experience with conventional…
ContinuePosted by Robert Ringel on September 17, 2020 at 1:48pm — 9 Comments
© 2024 Created by KregRep. Powered by
Badges | Report an Issue | Privacy Policy | Terms of Service