Panel work 4 4 Complete

Comment

Comment by Robert Brennan on February 12, 2012 at 9:15pm

Just to clarify, the shrink wrap I use is actually stretch wrap and its about 100mm wide, as described by Ken, and is on a device I can only best describe as looking like a German WWII hand grenade.

In fact when I was working with Boeing I had a similar one which had a note on the handle "pull pin and throw in the direction of the engineer" he he ha ha also I had a rubber mallet with 'Green engineer trainer" on it as well, you would be surprised how many picked it up read the label them asked what it meant !!! anyway enought frivolity back to work.  

Comment by Ken Darga on February 12, 2012 at 8:44pm

Personally, 

I find the ''stretch'' wrap more useful, over the ''shrink'' wrap.

Stretch wrap can be obtained from home centers, in smaller more manageable size rolls---

4-6'' wide---

handier to wrap objects.

Wider rolls, available in 18-24'' size, is more suitable for stretch-wrapping larger size objects, such as cabinet sections, and the like.

Comment by ray vile on February 12, 2012 at 11:34am

Robert , I found the same thing when it comes to mmaking doors, the first one is the hardest to make, but once you get the machines set up right, and I usually cut all the rails and stiles to the lengths that I'm going to need, cut the ends of all the rails first and then cut the stiles and the remaiining cuts on the rails. I am going to be using my share of shrink wrap in the future.

Once again well done and it must be really nice to work with wood that is not only so rare but you know its history

 

Comment by Robert Brennan on February 12, 2012 at 12:35am

Hello Ray

Thanks for the comments, they do look good, I was talking with Angie Brashears and she suggested the posting so she could have a look at them too, as she was making doors at the same time.

I was a little reluctant to do so, hence the mention of using Kreg Screws.

Shrink wrap yep its used to hold the joints together and then leave them without having to be concerned about glue sticking to the bench. I also use it for keeping everything together in dry fit whilst waiting to finish the matching door.

OK the time, it took me about 8 hrs (all Day) to initally produce a satisfactory result.

i.e. the first one, doing the prototype and making setting pieces takes more time than when I am happy and do a production run for a final finished item.

I also lose quite a bit of the original timber because I have cut selected sections from a plank.

These usually get re-sawn and used as  munton?  pieces, anyway the small sections between the panels.

Once you are set up and ready to run it only takes about 30m to produce a door ready to glue up.

So its good planning and do a series of doors to have some time efficiency in them.

The timber I used Camphor Laurel I assisted in milling at Kyogle NSW with a friend, brought them back to Brisbane QLD to seasont hem and its only now that they are ready for use,so I had a sprcial interest in seeing just what can be produced from the tree felling stage then right through to its second life !!

Comment by David Dean on February 12, 2012 at 12:26am

nice work with the grian and the trim.

Comment by ray vile on February 11, 2012 at 10:19pm

Robert the pictures of the lumber were beautifull, and the way you matched the panels is just fantastic to say the least, On the other pictures I noticed the tops and bottoms of the doors wrapped with stretch wrap. Do you use that as a way to clamp your doors together while the glue dries.

By the way how long did it take to make those doors. :)