wobbly shelves

[Keri]

Hello,

My son and I purchased the Kreg master system to build some bookcases for his room (with hopes of using the Kreg in future projects as well of course).    We are using 1x12 pine.   Since the actual thickness of the wood is 3/4" we set everything at 3/4. We vacuumed out the sawdust from all the pocket holes.  So far we have attached the shelves to one side of the book case using 2(1 1/4") screws per shelf.   The shelves really wobble a lot.   I thought that using the Kreg even attached to only one side the joint should be pretty tight.    Is this normal?    I expect it will firm up once we attach the sides but wanted to check about this wobbliness before going on.   Thanks for any help!

Keri

 

[Jens Jensen]

Is your torque set to weak on drill if your using a cordless drill.I use a impact drill for my screws and it torques right down all time.This is all it can be if all settings are done according to wood used

[David Throop]

I personally would use 3 screws per side, but two should be enough to have a pretty tight joint and you shouldnt need glue.  It really seems to me that the boards arent sucking tight enough.

What is the drill set to?  for example: 1-10 set at 3

Are you drilling the screws in one at a time?  Meaning you didn't start start the first front screw and then move on to the second screw before completly sinking in the first and the first screw is keeping the wood from sucking tight.

[David Throop]

Also do me a favor...remove all the screws from one of the boards.  Set your drill to a higher setting ( 1-10 = 7).  Screw the first screw in compeltely and then move on to the second etc...    also double check to ensure yo are using 1.25" coarse screws.

[Steve Berto]

When I first started using the Kreg jig I didn't know what torque setting to set my drill on to get the screw the tightest without tightening it too much. After I put the screws in at a low setting I took a ratchet with the square Kreg driver and tightened up the screws until I was satisfied that they were as tight as they should be, then I put my drill up another setting and repeated it until I found a setting that tightened the screws the right amount.  My first joints were a bit loose to until I found the best setting for my drill.  I also found out that I can insert a screw with a ratchet in places where there isn't enough room to get my drill in, and I also use the ratchet to check to make sure all my screws are good and tight. 

Try this to see if your screws are in as tight as they should be.

[Bryan Ebling]

Sorry to hear you returned the Kreg system on May 31st.  With all of the advice provided and in particular the advice from Kreg I wonder what the problem was with your construction methods.  Nevertheless, I found the system amazingly strong and easy to use.  YES, I have drilled some holes too deep and some too shallow (wrong setting), and have overtightened some but overall the system is great.  I encourage you to try it again when you have time to experiment with some projects.  The workbench project is a great starter project.

[Nick C]

The 1in board is more like 7/8 in thick  I would use 1 1/2 in screws

[greg darrow]

Just a thought......did you try to use 1 1/2 inch coarse screws. I may be using the wrong screw but this is what I use for 3/4 inch wood.....no problems here so far. It is a good system there is just something we are missing. Good luck with your project.

[Tony Bittner]

I cannot tell if that is a screw in one of your Pocket holes but if not it appears you do not have the correct depth setting on the bit.  

Al Barale said:

Keri

I can understand your frustration but don't give up on the Kreg jig just yet, maybe someone that lives near you can help show you how to get the best from the Kreg jig.  Other than what I have told you I'm not real sure where you were going wrong.  Perhaps you can practice on some scrap bits of timber.  I am sure that you master the pocket hole technique in no time.  

 

 

[JB]

Learn how to make DADOS!!!!

[Ken Darga]

Rigidity will not be achieved, without properly sized and placed cross members---

along the back of the shelf top or bottom, or a panel enclosing the back.

 

For an open shelf design, I'd run a 1x4 along the shelf top side, at the rear of each shelf---

and secured to the shelf and side members, using the Kreg system.

Also, a 1 by, along the lower edge of each shelf.

Each cross member will keep the shelf from bowing, when weight is applied to the shelf, 

such as placement of books, or the like.

Place a 1x4 member, across the wide, under the bottom shelf, at the front and rear.

 

For an enclosed design, affix a panel on the back side---a 1/4" thick plywood panel will suffice.

Rabbit the vertical members so the back panel is flush with the side members, rear edge.

The back panel can be affixed using appropriate brads or narrow staples, suitable for woodworking.

 

PS---For additional rigidity, the shelves can be set into a 1/4" deep dado, in the vertical members, and glued.

 

I've built lots of book shelves, various sizes/shapes, including wall units, with the above mentioned methods, and have had NO problems, using the Kreg joinery system.