wobbly shelves

[Keri]

Hello,

My son and I purchased the Kreg master system to build some bookcases for his room (with hopes of using the Kreg in future projects as well of course).    We are using 1x12 pine.   Since the actual thickness of the wood is 3/4" we set everything at 3/4. We vacuumed out the sawdust from all the pocket holes.  So far we have attached the shelves to one side of the book case using 2(1 1/4") screws per shelf.   The shelves really wobble a lot.   I thought that using the Kreg even attached to only one side the joint should be pretty tight.    Is this normal?    I expect it will firm up once we attach the sides but wanted to check about this wobbliness before going on.   Thanks for any help!

Keri

 

[John Schaben]

The only thing I can think of is the ends aren't square. That looks like 4S4 material from a BORG somewhere. If the ends aren't squared up on a table or miter saw, they probably aren't square. i also used to have a table saw where the bevel lock liked to slip and it would insidiously readjust itself to a 2 or 3 degree bevel. That saw is history.

[mo khan]

Keri- it might be that your setting on the jig is wrong. From the pic it looks like you've drilled the holes too far up for a 3/4" thickness. The screws are not sticking out far enough into the mating upright piece of the bookshelf and are not exiting the shelf in the middle. I built an 8 feet tall bookcase with only 2 screws on each shelf. I've never had any problems with the strength of kreg joints.

You can also try hand tightening the screws- your drill may not have enough power to drill the screws in properly. Besides these, I can't think of anything else that can be wrong.

[KregRep]

Keri,

Don't give up, we'll get this fixed for you!  It sounds like you're doing a lot of things right - correct 3/4" settings, correct screw length, correct screw type... here are a few things to double-check and try:

 

1)  Make sure when setting your depth collar that you start measuring from the STEP of the bit, not the TIP.  The step of the bit is what you should align with the number.  If you align it with the tip, your pocket holes won't be drilled deep enough and your screws won't enter the second workpiece far enough to give you a strong hold.

 

2)  Make sure you tighten the screws down firmly.  If you screw too far, the screw will strip, but you should tighten them far enough so that the gap between the two boards disappears and it gets considerably harder to tighten the screw.  Some Kreg Jig users prefer to tighten the last turn or so with a screw driver.

 

3)  Make sure your wood is cut squarely.  If the edge of your boards is not square, it will be more prone to rocking back and forth and your ability to get a tight joint will be greatly diminished.

 

4)  Definitely add more than two holes to each shelf.  I'd recommend 3 to 5 for that particular application.  The "every 6 inches" rule is more for edgejoining and edgejoining panel applications where you're creating table tops, etc.

 

5) Makes some test pieces and build some test joints.  Experiment with the scrap wood before finishing up your beautiful bookshelf.

 

6) Give our customer service team a call!  They're very helpful and patient - they'll walk you through step-by-step. 800.447.8638 or [e-mail]

 

 

Be sure to let us know how it turns out, I'd really like to see the final project!  I'm very confident you'll discover the missing link and be building incredibly strong Kreg Joints in no time.  Good luck!

[Steven Price]

did yo watch yo measurements on Kreg-jig

looks like yo shoulders on yo pocket hole

is not deep enough to pull the joint up tight

be right on the mark of 3/4 or just under

so tat the shoulder goes in deeper

 

opps wat kreg-rep said

[Randy Owens]

Keri,

 

If you are using 1x12 material you should have a third screw in the center to help. Good rule of thumb is about every 6" or so. It should tighten up when the other side is attached.

 

You can take a hand screw driver and check to make sure that the screws are seated completely. This way you can hopefully tell without over tightening the screw & stripping out the threads.

 

Have fun!

Randy

[Michael James Stemen]

I had the same problem on one shelf.  Then I discovered I did not have the drill set correctly.  I set it so the pilot hole part was on 3/4" instead of the clearance hole part.  Once I set the "shoulder at the 3/4" mark all worked fine. I would put at least 3 screws in a 1 X 12 also.

 

Jim

[Bill Bumpus]

I hope this helps.  I recently took an old painted 1x10 book case 7'6" long 29" high and dissembled it completely sanded it and rebuilt it.  I inset the back 1/4" Masonite.  I added 1x2" alder face frame and 4 screws where the shelf attached to the upright.   I used the pocket hole system threw-out the whole rebuild.  Its stage now is one more coat of primer then 2 coats of paint.  It is so sturdy it will hold anything I can put in it or on it.  Remember get those screws tight and use plenty of them.

 

 

[Michael R. Turner]

All bookcases more than 18" wide need to be stiffened against sway or racking. You can do this by adding 1/8" or thicker plywood or Masonite across the back of at least 2 shelves, or add 1x3s on edge across the back of each shelf, the same length of the shelf and fastened to the shelves and sides. 

 

I also subscribe to the theory that your drill collar was not correctly set, as mentioned by others 

[Keri]

thanks everyone for all the input....as I replied previously, all the settings were right, I rechecked so many times.    I tried 4 screws per board, etc.   Used lots of clamps.   Nothing worked.    Anyway, we finished the bookcase using screws (through the back and sides) and glue.    It is super strong.   I returned the Kreg this morning.   Perhaps if I can find someone in my area someday to show me I could try it again.     Until then, thanks for all the input.

Keri

[Jim Myers]

Keri go to the web site view the videos for using your kreg jig. I have built numerous projects using the kreg system with zero failures, make sure you are using the proper screws for your project and don't do like a friend of mine, don't pinch pennies and buy brand x screws they will not do the job. If you follow the instructions use the proper fasteners you should have no problems you could almost stand on the shelf. Jim

 

Keri said:

Hmmnn, there must be something I am missing.    We just tried adding 2 more screws to one of the shelves (for a total of 4 on one side), and it is as wobbly as ever - not a tight joint at all.    I really think it should be much tighter even w/o the second side on.    We are quite frustrated as we had expected to have it in his room by now!

Keri

[Randy Owens]

Keri,

 

One thing that I did not dwell one is that if using a drill/driver, make sure not to over tighten the screws and strip the threads out in the hole. This will create lose joints. If you have a clutch on your tool set it low and work up till you are sure they are good and snug, but not stripped.

 

Other than that I can think of nothing that should result in this problem. I have used my jig with great results.

 

Randy

[Charlie]

I initally had problems with screws not bottoming out. Took some trial and error on test joints to getbthe depth stop set properly and precisely. (Either the jig markings are not that precise or-- and more likely -- all lumber is not precisely exact .)hand tig
Hand tightening the last couple of turns helped. But bottom line is still clamps, glue, and screws even with a Kreg jig.