trouble with a mitered return

[WTH]

Alright I am trimming around some copper sheeting that I installed as a heat reflector for a wood stove, as shown in the picture below. After playing around with some trim options I decided that I wanted to use 3/4 x 3.5 maple with a mitered return. I would like to use pocket screws to attach the to mitered trim pieces together but I am afraid that there is not enough wood for the screw to grab since I do not want to have any exposed fasteners. Thoughts of how I can pull this off other than using a  biscuit with the miter?

[John Schaben]

This may be blasphemy but, as handy as pocket screws are, there are some situations where they aren't the best option. I would spline that. Just set your table saw blade to 45* and cut a groove down the center of the bevel. Either fill the slot with biscuits or cut a spline for it. JMHO

[David Dean]

well why dont you try a Kreg mimi jig and some 1" screws if you have to use 1 1/4" move the caller down so it doent go so deep but frist try it out on some small pice frist.

[Jens Jensen]

Biscuit joint it

[WTH]

@David Dean: That was a thought but I was worried about whether or not the connection will be strong enough. Since it is a long miter (~5') I was worried about strength.

 

As much as I hate to do it, I probably will go with the biscuit and then some miter spring clamps. I hate to use the spring clamps since they leave nicks in the wood but I think that would be easier then bar clamps and/or rachets.

[WTH]

I thought that this was interesting way to glue miters and I would not have to use the miter spring clamps. Check out the knock-off blocks for long miters.

 

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/techniques/archive/2009/12/07/1...

 

[WTH]

I started to cut the brown paper bag strips as shown in the link above when a buddy suggested that I try blue painters tape. It works like a champ that is easier to clean up and less sanding.