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How do you get rust off of planer or table saw surface?

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I have used maroon Scotch Brite pads on a quarter sheet random orbit sander with good results. I'm sure someone will come a long and let us all know why they think that is a bad idea. Since I moved away from the Houston area I have found that I no longer need to take such drastic measures to keep the rust off my cast iron tables. My band saw, jointer and 2 of my drill presses have been cleaned up this way on several occasions and there has been no damage to the table tops that I can detect. Proceed at your own risk.....
I may not have the correct answer either,but all I use is a 280 grit sand paper on my orbital sander..the small amount you have to sand seems minimal and does not seem to harm the surfaces at all...
I just use "000" steel wool (dry). When done don't forget to wax the surface!
Philip is right as far as scotch brite bit I would not use Turtle Wax because it has water in the solution,I also live in soggy NW and I have never had to clean up my tops for 1 reason I'm fully insulated and I use Johnson and Johnson furniture paste wax,Rub it on and polish it when gets haze to i.This way you stay on good side with your wife and rub her furniture for her also.Come on guys you no she is looking for excuse for you not to go out and spend more money on tools
I've had god luck using both scotch brite pads or 0000 steel wool then i follow up with a coat of minwax paste wax, once I had the top of my jointer gat a couple of pits in it and i used mothers polish for metals on it and they were gone in seconds but i did have to clean the tops of the jointer with mineral spirits to get the residue that the polish left
Charles: Your going to find some more projects so those machines don't get rusty! HA Just kiddin. I also use a scotch brite pad and paste wax on the surfaces. On some of my stuff (circular saw, some saw blades, ect, thats not getting used much) I wipe them down with WD 40 and wipe it off real good so it doesn't get onto any wood. Seems to work good for me. My brother uses naval jelly to remove rust on his stuff. Not the kind of naval jelly these guys are thinking! HA Just my two cents. T
wet/dry sand paper (black) with WD-40 has worked great for me
Thank you T Corey, your right. I haven't did any woodwork in 5 years due to kidney transplant.and rejection problems. I'm looking forward to getting equipment in working condition and get started.

T Corey said:
Charles: Your going to find some more projects so those machines don't get rusty! HA Just kiddin. I also use a scotch brite pad and paste wax on the surfaces. On some of my stuff (circular saw, some saw blades, ect, thats not getting used much) I wipe them down with WD 40 and wipe it off real good so it doesn't get onto any wood. Seems to work good for me. My brother uses naval jelly to remove rust on his stuff. Not the kind of naval jelly these guys are thinking! HA Just my two cents. T
Thank you Ray Vile for your tip.

ray vile said:
I've had god luck using both scotch brite pads or 0000 steel wool then i follow up with a coat of minwax paste wax, once I had the top of my jointer gat a couple of pits in it and i used mothers polish for metals on it and they were gone in seconds but i did have to clean the tops of the jointer with mineral spirits to get the residue that the polish left
Thats what I meant the liquid wax NONO

Phillip said:
Jens:
I have been using the rubbing compound for 7 years now on the table saw, band saw, lathes, and joiner. Never had a problem. My print shop guillotine paper cutter is OLD, and 5000lbs of cast iron, and I have used the red rubbing compound (Turtle Wax brand) on it for more than 25 years. I have yet to find a better complete deep down rust remover. I would agree with you 100% if you are referring to the Turtle Wax liquid wax, that HAS water in it. I do not use the liquid wax. Regarding the other two products, I had to find something that would clean the rust and grime from the cutter bed and keep the paper clean. I found both products at NAPA auto parts for auto body work. At that time there was still metal in the auto bodies (pre "Made by Mattel") so they had to avoid rust and make sure they did not start more.

I have used Minnwax which I suspect is very much like the J&J furniture paste wax. Just had some around, so I used it. I still found I liked the No.7 white polishing compound, but that is pure personal preference.
Phil
http://www.floorcareproducts.com/wood-floor-wax/index.asp
the lower can is what I use

Phillip said:
Jens:
I have been using the rubbing compound for 7 years now on the table saw, band saw, lathes, and joiner. Never had a problem. My print shop guillotine paper cutter is OLD, and 5000lbs of cast iron, and I have used the red rubbing compound (Turtle Wax brand) on it for more than 25 years. I have yet to find a better complete deep down rust remover. I would agree with you 100% if you are referring to the Turtle Wax liquid wax, that HAS water in it. I do not use the liquid wax. Regarding the other two products, I had to find something that would clean the rust and grime from the cutter bed and keep the paper clean. I found both products at NAPA auto parts for auto body work. At that time there was still metal in the auto bodies (pre "Made by Mattel") so they had to avoid rust and make sure they did not start more.

I have used Minnwax which I suspect is very much like the J&J furniture paste wax. Just had some around, so I used it. I still found I liked the No.7 white polishing compound, but that is pure personal preference.
Phil
Charles: Im really sorry to hear about your medical problems. Hope you are on the road to a speedy recovery! I hope your making saw dust and wood chips fly real soon! T

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