Router table idea

[Scott Aldridge]

I recently modified the 2x4 workbench plan to operate as a table saw table.

 

So I was wondering how hard would it be to modify the plan to make a router table?  What should I look at for an optimum height etc?  The router I have purchased is the Bosch 1617 if that helps any.  Any suggestions would be hugely helpful.

 

And yes my garage / work shop is still a work in progress, my want to do has about exceeded my room to do as of now  :-)

[John Schaben]

Hi Scott - that basic design would work just fine for a router table, just need to adjust the dimensions of the pieces to suit. Table height is whatever is comfortable for you, most find about elbow height to work well. The top just needs to be reasonably large, most commercial ones are around 23" deep by 32 to 40" wide. The top just needs to provide for supporting the router, generally accomplished with the use of a router plate. A good router plate will be aluminum or phenolic and 1/4-3/8" thick and drilled to match the router base for matching. The purpose of the plate is to preserve the depth of cut capabilities of the router. Mounting the router directly to the bottom of a 1-1/2" or so table top consumes a great deal of depth capability. You've got a workhorse router there. Good luck to you.

[Scott Aldridge]

Thanks that was what I was kinda hoping for.  Now that brings up the next question.  Any good plans for a fence I could modify to fit my table?  Also is there any real difference between a plate from Rockler and the one from Kreg?  I know I can get both pre-drilled for my router.  Again forgive the noob questions :-)

[John Schaben]

Hi Scott - Like the table, the fence can be as simple or complex as you want. I prefer a split fence myself and really haven't found a lot of use for microadjusters. You might get some ideas here

Not really sure about the plate differences between the Kreg and the Rockler other than overall size. I think the Kreg is more of a standard (if such a thing exists) size at 9-1/4 x 11-3/4" which matches most router lifts. That is to say you could pop the plate out and drop a router and lift in it's place with no mods to the table top. Rockler is an inch less north-south (front-back). As far as operation, I wouldn't anticipate any difference. Shoot the thing just holds the router. Main differences in plates is the hardness of the anodizing on aluminum plates. I wore through the thin stuff on a cheap plate and had no end to black aluminum oxide marks on the stock until I had it replated. The other major difference in plates is the number and attachment method of the insert rings. The higher end plates like incra and woodpecker use rare earth magnets with steel rings (incra) or plastic rings with a turn lock design (woodpecker) and offer a larger number of insert rings. More $$ also.

 
Scott Aldridge said:

Thanks that was what I was kinda hoping for.  Now that brings up the next question.  Any good plans for a fence I could modify to fit my table?  Also is there any real difference between a plate from Rockler and the one from Kreg?  I know I can get both pre-drilled for my router.  Again forgive the noob questions :-)

[Scott Aldridge]

Ok, another noob question incoming.  I have been reading the best surface for the router table is 1.5" of MDF with laminate covering.  Should I put the laminate on before or after I cut the hole for the plate?  I am thinking before I cut the hole but I want to make sure.

[John Schaben]

Hi Scott - do the laminate first. It would be a bear to try to match the hole exactly  and likely come out looking hacked. Speaking of laminate and MDF, you really need to laminate the top and bottom plus edge band for stability. MDF tends to be sensitive to moisture and humidity.  I also seal the edges of the cutout after making it. I use BLO for that but most anything to seal the moisture would work.

Good Luck :)
 
Scott Aldridge said:

Ok, another noob question incoming.  I have been reading the best surface for the router table is 1.5" of MDF with laminate covering.  Should I put the laminate on before or after I cut the hole for the plate?  I am thinking before I cut the hole but I want to make sure.

[Scott Aldridge]

BLO?

[John Schaben]

Boiled Linseed Oil
Scott Aldridge said:

BLO?

[Ken Darga]

Zinsser Bullseye® SealCoat™ A shellac-Base Sanding Sealer  dries dust-free in 5 minutes, dries to the touch in 10 minutes and is ready to sand/recoat in 40 minutes

Excellent product, for sealing MDF.

It's compatible with all clear finishes.

 

[Scott Aldridge]

Holy crap I just went to my local Lowes and priced out items I would need to do my table top.  SInce I have none of the tools, supplies to do the job I am looking at $150 without including the tracks or fence.  Can anyone point me to some decent table tops in or around that price range?  Preferrably without an included plate ... solid or hole for a Rockler plate since I already purchased the plate.

 

Or could I go with sanded smooth and polyurethane coated plywood to cut costs?

[Russ Haynes]

Yes, I think you could.  Just make sure you keep a nice coat of wax on it at all times to keep your workpieces running smoothly.  No need for paste wax or anything fancy, just a lump of beeswax or a candle would do the trick.  Melamine is a great alternative though -- slippy surface, pretty cheap.

[John Schaben]

Hi Scott - This table already comes with a plate, different size than the Rockler plate though. Unfortunately, AFAIK, the Rockler plate only fits Rockler tables (and likely Bench Dog as Rockler owns them). You may be able to return the Rockler for a refund though. This table is a decent size, comes with a stand and, while not a lot of whistles n' bells, has all you need to get started.

What run the price up on you? Enough MDF to make a double thickness table should only run about $35 and have enough left over for a fence. Laminate can get expensive if they want to sell you a full sheet. You could try to pick up some offcuts from a cabinet making shop if there is one in the area. A millworks is also a good source if there is one around you that makes countertops.
 
Scott Aldridge said:

Holy crap I just went to my local Lowes and priced out items I would need to do my table top.  SInce I have none of the tools, supplies to do the job I am looking at $150 without including the tracks or fence.  Can anyone point me to some decent table tops in or around that price range?  Preferrably without an included plate ... solid or hole for a Rockler plate since I already purchased the plate.

 

Or could I go with sanded smooth and polyurethane coated plywood to cut costs?

[Gary roofner]

Here maybe the best buy. 

http://www.grizzly.com/products/Router-Table-with-Stand/T10432