Rockler universal T slot track question

[SRX]

Hello,

I recently purchased the Kreg's Master kit (K4MS I believe?) and also the universal T slot track from Rockler (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=21276&site=ROCKLER).  I was wondering what would be the best way to attach the track to a 2' x 4' sheet of 3/4" melamine as I plan to make a DIY version of the Kreg's Clamping Table.

My main concern is that the downward applied clamp pressure will be greater than that of the screws which hold the track to the melamine sheet.  Are screws enough to secure the track to the melamine, or would the clamps pull them out of the board below?

I am guessing that using a dadoed groove with some type of epoxy as well as screws would probably be my best bet, but I wanted to ask here for any and all suggestions.  Not sure what would bond aluminum to particle board though?

Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Scott

[Ken Darga]

Scott,

1st---I’d make the work top 1'' thick.

(Glue a 1/4'' MDF sheet to the back side of the 3/4'' melamine board, to make the 1’’ thickness).

Add a ''dado'' to the work top surface, using a router.

NOTE:  the tract needs to be a snug fit, not a force fit, in the dado.

Make the slot depth 1/32’’ deeper than the height of the track.  This will avoid any snagging, that may occur, during use and performing any operations on the work surface.

  Add a 1/64'' chamfer the cut edges of the laminate, after making the dado, and before installing the track.  The chamfer can be made using a fine flat file.

  Seal all the wood surfaces, and apply shellac, after machining---

Before installing the tracks and hardware. 

  Secure the track with flat-head machine screws---

(I'd suggest #8 vs #6 screws)

counter-bore the back side, for a flat washer and ''lock-nut''.

Cut-off/grind-off, any protruding excess end of the screw,

so the screw tip is below the back-side surface.

  (Wood screws are not adequate to hold the t-track in particle board.  You'll need about 2'' of thread-depth for a secure hold).

  DO NOT secure the track with an adhesive---it isn't necessary.

If for some reason, the track needs to be removed, at a later date, you've got bigger issues.

  NOTE: For heavy duty use, such as in high clamping forces, add additional holes in the t-track, with a BC of 3'', and secure as described above.

 The top lip in the t-track will distort, under high clamping forces, before the channel distorts, when installed as described above. 

  FYI---I've installed lots of t-tracks, and hold-downs in wood.  To date, I haven't experienced any failures, either for my own use and others.

[SRX]

Thank you so much for the detail Ken.  I really like this idea and it sounds very secure.  I had not thought of removing the T slot track at a later date; it really would outlast the melamine substrate.  After measuring out a few dimensions, I am going to give it a go this week.  I'll post whatever the outcome is afterwards.

Thanks again!

Scott

[Ken Darga]

Scott,

If your work-top should get damaged, and need replacing, you can always remove it and affix it to another top.

  T-tracks are very useful, for jigs, fixtures, work tops, and the like.

Add a t-track to the cross member on your sawhorse(s).

Add a t-track to your workbench---set it back about 2'' from the front edge.

You can install a 2, 3 or 4ft long section, or

the entire length/width of you bench.

[George Kaiser]

If you offset the 3/4 top from the substrate for the klamp track, you could have 2 factory edges and do no additional routing.

 

Have you looked at the product manual, http://www.kregtool.com/Klamp-Trak-Prodview.html

[John Schaben]

Scott - I agree with Ken, machine screws with washers and locknuts to secure t-tracks that get pressure. #6 will work fine though. I don't think the Rockler track has  enough of a countersink to keep the heads of the #8"s from sticking up and interfering.

SRX said:

Thank you so much for the detail Ken.  I really like this idea and it sounds very secure.  I had not thought of removing the T slot track at a later date; it really would outlast the melamine substrate.  After measuring out a few dimensions, I am going to give it a go this week.  I'll post whatever the outcome is afterwards.

Thanks again!

Scott

[SRX]

Thanks John.  I did test fit some #8 wood screws in and they did stick up a bit.  #6 it is then.

Thanks George.  That would make dealing with the inner, rounded router corners easier.  Just square edges.  Thanks for the manual link as well.

[Ken Darga]

The counter-sink can be enlarged, to accept a #8 flat head screw.

A counter-sink tool, is needed to achieve this function.

[John Schaben]

You can also grind the top of the screw down some. An 81° countersink will grind into the top edge of the track, at least the ones I had would. With all due respect though, a #6 with flat washer and lock nut is plenty strong. Chances are if you are applying that much pressure the track itself will deform before you stress the screws.

Ken Darga said:

The counter-sink can be enlarged, to accept a #8 flat head screw.

A counter-sink tool, is needed to achieve this function.

[Ken Darga]

John,

  I'm sure, the #6, would be suitable, as you wrote.

However, when using #6 screws, personally, I'd add another hole and screw, centered between the existing screw holes, to reduce the likelihood of distortion under some HD clamping pressure.

  PS---I have a tool that drills & countersinks, for FH #8 screws, that fits right in that t-track channel.

John Schaben said:

You can also grind the top of the screw down some. An 81° countersink will grind into the top edge of the track, at least the ones I had would. With all due respect though, a #6 with flat washer and lock nut is plenty strong. Chances are if you are applying that much pressure the track itself will deform before you stress the screws.

[Ken Darga]

BTW---

''t-tracks'' are not intended for HD clamping tasks.

This type would be more suitable

Kreg Klamp track

or

Rockler

[John Schaben]

You're right Ken, the usual t-tracks from Rockler and others aren't really heavy duty. However, there are some that are. Here is one that uses 3/8" hardware:

http://www.ttrackusa.com/

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Ken Darga said:

BTW---

''t-tracks'' are not intended for HD clamping tasks.

This type would be more suitable

Kreg Klamp track

or

Rockler

[Ken Darga]

Thanks John.

Good info.

John Schaben said:

You're right Ken, the usual t-tracks from Rockler and others aren't really heavy duty. However, there are some that are. Here is one that uses 3/8" hardware:

http://www.ttrackusa.com/