Question on workbench

[Scotty Gadlin]

So I am getting ready to tackle my first project, the simple workbench.  I am very excited, however I had some questions.  I do not have indoor space so this will be an outdoor work bench.  What material should I use to replace mdf table top, as I know it can crumble easily? 

I plan to use cedar for the rest and give it some polyurethane protection coat. Thanks for any help

[Mike Kahle]

Actually the MDF is not going to crumble like you think... perhaps you are thinking of chipboard or OSB? When I made my 2x4 workbench, I had to buy a sheet of MDF because they didnt offer it in 2x4 precut sheets like is suggested in the videos of the 2x4 assembly. I left some scrap outside on purpose so that it would get rained on and weathered. I figured it would go like chipboard; as soon as it got wet it would swell and start to fall apart. This was not the case. I was very surprised that after it rained for two days the scrap I left outside was pretty much intact. Yes, the MDF was penetrated by the rain, and the edges were soft, but it didnt swell and fall apart like chipboard would have.

You can paint the MDF, like i did. Start with an oil based primer, then oil based paint. Make sure to paint every bit of it. If I was going to leave mine outdoors, I would have the two tops and the shelf cut to size and paint all three then put the two tops together and then mount to the frame. You wll have to repaint the top over time as you use it it will get marred and scratched up, but the paint will prevent any water from penetrating the MDF.

Hope this helps you.

As for the frame being done in cedar.... that is going to be a very expensive frame. If that doesnt hurt your pocketbook, cool, go for it and POST PIX... would love to see the 2x4 table made with cedar... but I personally would just use good #1 treated pine. You would need to use the stainless steel 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws, but compared to buying cedar 2x4s, I think you will save quite a bit of money like this.

Good luck in your project.

And welcome to the community.

[Scotty Gadlin]

Thanks for the advice, I definitely will take that into consideration, and appreciate the advice to bring down cost.  Is there an alternative to mdf is there for the tabletop that is good for outdoor use?

Mike Kahle said:

Actually the MDF is not going to crumble like you think... perhaps you are thinking of chipboard or OSB? When I made my 2x4 workbench, I had to buy a sheet of MDF because they didnt offer it in 2x4 precut sheets like is suggested in the videos of the 2x4 assembly. I left some scrap outside on purpose so that it would get rained on and weathered. I figured it would go like chipboard; as soon as it got wet it would swell and start to fall apart. This was not the case. I was very surprised that after it rained for two days the scrap I left outside was pretty much intact. Yes, the MDF was penetrated by the rain, and the edges were soft, but it didnt swell and fall apart like chipboard would have.

You can paint the MDF, like i did. Start with an oil based primer, then oil based paint. Make sure to paint every bit of it. If I was going to leave mine outdoors, I would have the two tops and the shelf cut to size and paint all three then put the two tops together and then mount to the frame. You wll have to repaint the top over time as you use it it will get marred and scratched up, but the paint will prevent any water from penetrating the MDF.

Hope this helps you.

As for the frame being done in cedar.... that is going to be a very expensive frame. If that doesnt hurt your pocketbook, cool, go for it and POST PIX... would love to see the 2x4 table made with cedar... but I personally would just use good #1 treated pine. You would need to use the stainless steel 2 1/2 inch pocket hole screws, but compared to buying cedar 2x4s, I think you will save quite a bit of money like this.

Good luck in your project.

And welcome to the community.

[Mike Kahle]

Scotty, I havent made any outdoor work tables... I did a small picnic table for my kids, but it is all think treated.

There are a few outdoor table projects... Some here on this site and other places. You could go over those ideas and take from them what you want. Another idea would be to get 8 eight foot treated 2x4s and cut to 4 foot length, and put them together like in this project: http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/projects/archive/2010/01/13/dre...

You need 16 4 foot 2x4s to make a 2 foot by 4 foot top. Glue and pocket hole the 2x4s together and then mount to the frame.... And that would come out cheaper than buying a full sheet of MDF. Here a full sheet of MDF cost $35. 8 8foot treated 2x4s cost $3. So you can make a treated table top for $24 instead of $35. Then you would have to do the shelf too... so I guess you would have to spend more... I would do the shelf with the 2x4s flat, not on edge like on the top. The top you want them on edge to give you thickness. for the shelf you just want support. You could actually use a center support in the frame, and use treated decking 5/4 instead of 2x4. its thinner and saves money and weighs less.

[Ken Darga]

I'd seal all the wood, with a suitable oil based primer---

seal all surfaces of ''EACH'' piece, before assembly.

Allow the oil base primer to ''dry throughly''---refer to the manufacturers recommendations, for climate and local conditions---generally allow 7-10 days, before proceeding.

 

I've had excellent long term results using the Cabot brand wood sealer.

 

Other suitable waterproofing/sealer materials may suffice, but since there are so many new EPA rules in recent years, the quality of sealers aren't what they use to be, from previous years.

 

Assemble the workbench.

 

Seal/close all joints, butted surfaces, and the like, with an exterior grade caulk.

 

Use a caulk/sealer, which is designed for use in metal gutters---this is a thinner material over standard caulk---it will flow into small cracks/crevices, for a watertight seal.

This material is resilient/flexible when cured.  This is important, such that any flexing of the materials, will not result in separations.

(I get this type sealer from Lowes, in the dept that stocks gutters/downspouts).

 

Apply this sealer into all joints/cracks/crevices, and the like, to prevent water penetration between surfaces---the result will be a extended fixture/project life.

Smooth out the caulked joints, before the material cures.

 

If any water/moisture gets into the wood cracks/joints, rotting will occur.

 

Finally, apply the suitable exterior finish to your project.

 

BTW---for a work top, I'd use 2x12 stock, vs any sheet goods.

Particle board, or the like, will eventually separate.  Minute cracks will develop, during normal use/expansion/contractions, as temperature and humidity changes occur.

 

If any cracks develop in the surface of the worktop over time, use a wood sealer that penetrates deep into the cracks---allow to dry and caulk the gaps. 

 

Works for me.

[Robert Brennan]

Hello Scotty,

 

Mike is correct in his message regarding MDF.

 

I have worknbench which the frame is Oregon and the top work area is MDF, the reason this is the case as like yourself I was given the materials.

 

The MDF will eventually become uneven if left to the exposure of the elements.

So what I did was to buy a sheet of plastic cotton backed vinyl an put it over the bench when I have finished work to protect it from the weather along with 2 x pieces of wood under the end legs to give the bench a slope

 

Robert Brennan

[Jens Jensen]

I have MDF on mine but it is inside. I did however put a laminate counter top sheet on top.Reason is if I am staing or painting and of course spill on it all I do is clean up with water or mineral spirits.And if I forget to clean up all I do is take my sander and sand it down .220 grit dont harm it. I also use it for sketching layouts and wipe or sand off pencil marks

 

[Chris Crockett]

Have you ever considered phenolic material... It is like a high density plastic and should be weather proof. Hope this helps.

[Ken Darga]

''phenolic material''---

may be hard to find, and costly, for a sheet size and thickness, suitable for a workbench top.

 

Some years back, I got a quote for around $250 for a 3/4'' x 24'' x 48''.

Weight: approx 80lbs.

Plus, shipping costs= ???

 

Not economical for a workbench top, for intermittent outdoor use.

 

You might find a 1/2" thick ''hot-rolled steel sheet'' for less money.

 

Scotty,

Why not use pressure treated 2x stock for the frame work---

I'd be the most economical for what you desire.

 

[Scotty Gadlin]

Thanks for the replies, I will definitely be using Pressure treated stock for the frame, still not sure about the top though.  I am trying to keep this on the cheap side as it will be outside.  Thanks

[Ken Darga]

Scotty,

For an all-purpose top, pressure treated 2x stock, will suffice.

Find the widest stock you can find---if its only 2x6 stock, butt the seams---it'll do nicely.

2x stock will be sturdy enough to pound on, hammer on with a sledge, if you need to.

The top needs to heavy and sturdy enough.

 

Bolt the 2x's, using 5/16 carriage bolts, recess the heads below the tops surface, (a speed bore bit will suffice to counter sink the heads).

Large washers on the under side, and nuts.

 

Run 2x4 stock, front to back on the work bench frame---

secure these to 4x4 leg posts, secure the front to back members with (2) 5/16 lag bolts to the top end of each leg post---secure the 2x top planks from side-to-side.

Locate the 5/16" lag bolts, on a diagonal, 1.5" in from each corner.

Drill pilot holes in the top of the legs, to prevent splitting.

 

Extend the top planks 8-12'' over the work bench frame ends.

The extended planks will allow for mounting a vise on one end, 

perhaps a wood working vise on the other end.

If the top plants are long enough, like 6 to 8 ft long, the wood working vise could be located in the middle.

 

A sheet of 1/4" thick masonite, will suffice, as a temporary top cover over the working surface.

 

When not in use, a ply tarp could be used, to cover the entire bench, to protect it from the elements.

 

Have fun building, and with your wood working projects.

 

btw---use an exterior grade wood sealer for all the wood surfaces.

Scotty Gadlin said:

Thanks for the replies, I will definitely be using Pressure treated stock for the frame, still not sure about the top though.  I am trying to keep this on the cheap side as it will be outside.  Thanks

[John Hardin]

I've been using boiled linseed oil and varnish and naptha as a finish and it has spilled all over my assembly table, which is mdf. I like it and whenever I put down my water glass it beds up real nice.