Kreg Owners' Community

Please help....I am trying to make a puzzle picture frame using my K...3 jig, 5/8 actual thickness x 2 in wide stock cut at 45's...I put the mitred cut down on the jig and cannot for the life of me figure out what guides to use to give me a good joint. I purchased the micro jig and I am not fairing any better.....this is for my 6 month grandson and I need to get it right...I used up 8ft of oak trying to figure it out and I am at wits end....TIA

Views: 1670

Reply to This

Replies to This Discussion

Hi Marc, Although you can join two pieces of wood together using pocket holes it has it's limitations.  Unless you use material that is wide enough you will end up with the beginning of the pocket hole bore showing.  There is a better method of doing this by using a corner spline that is inserted in a cut created by cutting the corners at the heel of the miter.  A thin piece of material is then glued into the cuts and then when cured is cut flus to the sides of the frame.  You can also use a biscuit cut into the miter and glued.

  Incidentally it is humorous  to me that in the beginning of 2011 I posted a long post on dealing with miters and corners in building cabinets.  At that time there was nothing on the Kreg site and no information.  Now this post has pointed out to me how Kreg now has a printed publication that contains much of what I tried to point out and teach members 4 years ago.

A screen capture is attached above of the Kreg information now appearing on the site.  Below is ONLY part of my post of four years ago.  Although this will not help you much on the 90 degree turn I think you will find it educational.  The last part of the post by RE Woods contains the information that I am referring to. 

To solve your problem I would spline the corners as it will give you a strong joint  

 With all the accurate miter saws and table saws available and the Kreg Jig pocket screw system of today, the making of angled joints has allowed us to master the art of joining wood together.

 Since building a cabinet that runs along a wall in a straight line requires little or no angle cutting of stock, other that the 90 degree cut to length and join with a pocket screw.  Other configuration require the use of miters and angles.   I was wondering what everyones method is for doing cabinet runs that twist and bend into angles like like 22 1/2 degrees,  45 degrees and or some other angle to fit a wall or build a custom cabinets run other than a straight line or a 90 degree bend.  I know everyone has their own  methods and it would be interesting to hear about everyone's approach to this problem.

Facebook

Views: 8557

 
My method of building angled cabinets is actually straight forward where I cut the required cabinet angle on one stick of the face frame and run it into a 90 degree joint using glue and pocket screws to secure the members.  When using 13/16 stock the cutting of the angle and running it into a 90 degree stock the toe on the angle piece grows depending on the cut angle.  To remedy this aline the inside pieces with other allowing the toe of the miter to extend out past the 90 degree piece secure the joint with the pocket screw and then sand and or cut the excess of the toe off. (refer to photo) .

When using 13/16 " stock  the toe to heel will grow 3/8" on a 45 degree miter.  A  22 1/2 degree miter the same stock grows less than 1/8 inch.  The method above shows a miter for the outside of a cabinet angle so the make the inside just reverse the 90 degree piece to place the screw side in towards the toe of the miter.  Aline in the same manner and then sand off the toe.    This places the screws to the inside of the face frame. On the ou...    Rule of thumb, run the screws into the mitered piece always boring the pocket holes into the 90 degree piece.........................................                                                    (more will follow)

Delete

(Angled cabinets continued:)    In dealing with an angled cabinets  the most ideal thing is to cut the miters and the 90 degree piece from the same stock of wood thus maintaining grain figures as well as color of wood.  The same applies in the sheet goods as well as wide lumber.  To make a miter turn in sheet goods or lumber mitered in the long grain cut, the same miter to 90 degree connection applies.  To cut a stile in a mitered turn, use stock that is wider than the finished size of the two stiles.  Cut the needed miter angle and then recut the waste from the stock into a 90 degree stock and attach the miter again allowing the toe of the miter to extend past the 90 degree stock and then sand or cut this off.  The photo below is a 45 degree outside miter that you would use on the back of a cabinet. A 22 1/2 degree is done the same manner and if you match the grain you will  make an almost invisable joint.  The best part of this, it is done with two saw cuts, no cleats or backing pieces.  It is flush on the inside and the outside and it is fastened with pocket screws and glue.  Again to make a inside piece, just reverse the piece so the screws are on the side opposite that of what you want to be visable.

Reply to Discussion

RSS

Need Help?

For Technical Support, please call 800-447-8638 or send a message. Reps are available Monday through Friday from 8am to 5pm CST. 

Videos

  • Add Videos
  • View All

Forum

Jig settings for 2 ¾ x 1 ½ boards with 30 degree miters?

I making a hex ring out of 2x4s ripped to 2 ¾ inches wide with 30 degree miters.  What setting on the Jig should I used? 1 ½ is too much.  Thanks.Continue

Started by Patrick Halinski in Kreg Jig® Operation Dec 30, 2023.

40mm Cup Hinge Jig Question

Hi All.....I have the 35mm Kreg Jig hinge drill guide. The guide is great for 35mm Hinge Cups, but I have a speciality 40MM hinge cup to drill.Has anyone adapted the Kreg guide to work with 40mm Forsner drill bits? Or have a guide that works…Continue

Started by Ed Anderson in Beginners' Zone Oct 3, 2023.

Product Reviews

New Kreg 720Pro

I saw the video Kreg put out for this new jig and had high hopes for it.

I purchased one today and am very disappointed with it.

First the docking station is extremely cheap. The plastic is pathetic. A Lego has more…

Continue

Posted by Duke Leon on February 15, 2021 at 9:00pm

Not Pleased With Pocket Hole Construction

Several months ago, I purchased the Kreg K4MS so that I could build the Lego Table as outlined on the companion "buildsomething" web site which exclusively uses pocket hole construction.  I have considerable experience with conventional…

Continue

Posted by Robert Ringel on September 17, 2020 at 1:48pm — 9 Comments

© 2024   Created by KregRep.   Powered by

Badges  |  Report an Issue  |  Privacy Policy  |  Terms of Service

_