Kreg Rip Cut

[Andy Harris]

So I bought a kreg rip cut to see if it helped with straighter cuts. One thing I have found and maybe just me but as you reach the edge of the board the guide cannot obviously stay square as not enough material to guide it. Anybody else had same issue and managed to get around it. For now I've gone back to clamping a guide to the board and just keeping the saw plate aligned with that. Any tips greatly appreciated. Thanks.

[Don Foley]

Andy,

Thanks for posting this. I bought a rip cut awhile back but have not started the project I purchased it for yet.  I'll take your comments into consideration prior to ripping some rather costly hardwood plywood.

If I come up with an idea when I start using it, I'll let you know.

Don

[Andy Harris]

Thanks Don.  I found that with the saw mounted the blade starts behind where the actual guide starts.  This means that when you get to the end of the piece you end up with effectively having to cut the last 6 or 7 inches free hand - which to me defeats the object..  This is the only Kreg product I have ever returned for a refund.

[KregRep]

Andy, here are a few tips that might help:

Before you begin cutting, make sure that your sheet is well-supported. This will prevent the piece you are cutting, as well as the remaining part of the sheet, from slipping or falling. It will also help you to maintain better control of the cut. When you’re using a circular saw, a sheet of 2"-thick rigid foam insulation (available in home centers) provides great support. Lay the foam on the ground or a sturdy work surface, and then place your sheet on top of it. The foam supports your sheet, giving you two free hands to control your saw. As you cut, let the saw blade cut into (but not through) the foam.

When it's time to cut, be sure to turn on your saw and let the blade get to full speed before it makes contact with your material. Then, keep in mind that a blade with a lot of teeth—such as a plywood-cutting blade—cuts more slowly. Give the blade time to cut, and don't “force” the saw forward. Just push it at a pace that the blade can keep up with. Guide the saw with your dominant hand, and keep your eye on where the saw is going to get the straightest cut. Make sure to control your saw throughout the entire cut. With the workpiece well supported, it won’t bind or pinch, allowing you to concentrate on the saw.

Another idea is to install a new blade that is specifically designed for cutting plywood, which should be available at your local hardware store or home improvement center for less than $20. Your circular saw most likely came with a “stock” blade designed to make fast, rough cuts in construction lumber, not splinter-free cuts in plywood. The number one thing you can do to improve the quality of your saw’s cut is to upgrade its blade.

In this Quick Tip video, we show how to set up your Kreg Rip-Cut™ for accurate cuts. 

If you have further questions, you can always contact the Technical Support Team directly at 800-447-8638 or online. They are very knowledgeable and will be more than happy to help you troubleshoot.

[Bill Voltzke]

Hi Andy,
I recently had the same dilemma about the rip cut and found a few people with the same problem you're describing. Someone suggested just keeping a spare 8-12" wide piece of 3/4" plywood around and clamp it to your plywood to use as a fence. I've employed this with great success on my last few projects.

[Frank]

You can also extend the blue part with an extra 6in peice of straight scrap wood to add some length and fix the problem 100%

[Frank]

Also to the Kreg guys... If you added a clamp track for the blue peice to slide in, that could be a better updated model! I have added a few things to my Kreg products to make them easier for me to use as well. Because I believe the problem most people would have is supporting the peice 100%. At least that's where I noticed my problem.