Joining at 45°?

[Adam Severeid]

Sorry if this has been posted somewhere, I'm currently viewing on the mobile site and they're doesn't appear to be a search function.
I've got a project coming up (I'll see if I can attach a photo), and I'd like to join the corners on a miter instead of simple butt joints.
So do I figure the screw length to the mid point of the miter, or still for the thickness of the stock?

[Ken Darga]

Select screw size length to the stock thickness you're joining.

[Adam Severeid]

Thanks, I should have been more clear on the project...it's for a built in bench, and technically the joints would be bevel cuts.

The project is going to be constructed with 3/4 G1S ply, and I'd like to bevel cut all the corners to join up cleanly as opposed to edge banding the open "grain" of the ply.

Any advice on how to hold the pieces together while applying the pocket screws?

[Ken Darga]

"Klamping is KEY" ", so as to hold the parts together when installing the screws.

Klamp firmly in place, to prevent movement.

When joining beveled joints, I generally use other fastening methods vs pocket holes and screws;

so as to avoid the exposed pocket holes on the exterior of the joined members.

[Jay Boutwell]

Turning Corners In Cabinets With Angles

Hi Adam, If you go to the above discussion on my discussions you will find some interesting method of dealing with pocket holes and miters.  A better miter in a frame can be made by cutting all of the miter on one piece and then screwing it into a 90 degree piece.  In my discussion you will see a 45 degree miter standing on it edge but simple lay it flat cutting the miter so it will mate up to a 90 degree piece also laying on it flat side.  (like in a picture frame)  This method allows you to use multi pocket screws in and do so without driving a screw out the side.  Lay out the pocket holes by placing the miter cut end in position on the 90 degree end and mark out the pocket holes so that you can use multiple pocket screws.  Drill the pocket holes into the 90 degree piece.  When you place the two parts together end to end, aline the inside of the frame so that they are flush with each other . ( INSIDE TO INSIDE ALLOWING THE TOE OF THE MITER TO PROTRUDE PAST THE FRAME)  You will grind cut or sand off the toe to the edge of the 90 degree piece.   In assembly it is easier to drive in the pocket screw to set the miter alignment and then remove add glue and then re assemble.  Sand off the toe to its flush position.  On a 45 degree miter using 3/4 material you will have about a 1/4 inch over hang on the toe and is you notice sanding it off will actually fool the eye by moving the corner of the miter by about 1/4 inch.  ( most will look for the miter line at the toe but the toe has moved and fools the eye helping you make a better miter joint.   Once you read the post listed above you will definitely learn some tricks.   Questions please contact me.