Freud sawblades

[michael evans]

Hi all anyone had any experience with Freud sawblades?After not having much luck finding a new 48tooth blade for my Metabo mitresaw,i figured i would look for a readily available alternative.When i was in construction seems years ago now ,all the chippys were useing freud blades.So i went and ordered one online,my saw has two small locating holes in addition too the arbor hole.The freud blade came with the same holes but when i went to fit the blade the two smaller were too small.Frustrated i started too look at it more closely turned out there was a bit of metal swarf in the holes.So i carefully reemed the holes out and hey presto a perfect fit,and wow what a blade cuts like a knife thru butter and such a clean cut i am impressed,all bar the hole issue Freud for me from now on.Have had no problems getting blades for my Dewalt tablesaw and fairly cheap so i guess if your in the market for a new machine see how readily available spares are and at what cost before you buy.[Lesson learned here].

[David Dean]

Here you go Mike Andri at Diablo said to gave you this.

If you want to reach the sales department try one of the below channels.
Website contact form:
http://www.freudtools.com/t-contact.aspx
Email:
[e-mail]
Phone:
[phone]

[michael evans]

Hi david thanks for that link,hows things with you?

[Ken Darga]

Hi Mick,

I have several Freud and Diablo carbide tooth blades---

6, 7-1/4 and 10'' blades---

regular and thin-kerf blades---

24, 40, 60 and 80 tooth versions.

For ripping and cross cutting in wood---

also, their 6'' dado blades.

They all perform well.

I use the blades in various power saws---circular hand saws, straight and angle, miter-slide saws and table saws.

Their metal cutting TCG blade, produces nice square and flat cuts in wood---

without those tiny ridges produced by most ATB saw blades.

Freud's Premier-Fusion blade produces a glass smooth finish, in rip and cross-cuts.

It also gives a flawless top & bottom finish in veneered plywood, hardwoods, and melamine.

They say the double-side grind, is key.

I'm impressed with the smooth cut this blade produces.

Re the arbor hole.

The saw blade plate should fit snug onto the arbor---NO PLAY---do not force fit.

You may give it a slight wobble to fit it onto the shaft.

Rotating the saw blade forward and backward, a short travel should be enough.

(It's not a loose fit, akin to a golf ball dropping into the cup).

The hole is machine punched into the saw blade plate.

A very slight burr can occur on the trailing edge of the punched hole---

the hole is punched before the teeth are fused and ground.

The burr may be ''up'' on some blades and ''down'' on others.

This burr can be easily removed, using a machinist half-round smooth-cut file---

making very light and even forward filing passes---

just enough to remove the burr---''do not'' make a chamfered hole.

(The edge can be examined with a 2 1/2 power magnifier, as needed, to view the edge). 

Are you using standard or thin kerf blades?

[michael evans]

Thanks ken standard blade,your info always helpful.Was a bit of swarf sorted now and very impressed with my first Freud blade.

[Ken Darga]

Mick,

Which blade model did you get?

michael evans said:

Thanks ken standard blade,your info always helpful.Was a bit of swarf sorted now and very impressed with my first Freud blade.

[michael evans]

Hi ken,believe the freud blade a lp30m would that be the model number?Its a ten inch blade or as we work in millimeters here a 216mm .Not up too much on technical info,all i know it cuts lovely have a good day .