Flush Cut?

[Rita B.]

Any recommendations for a flush cut saw or best practice for cutting the wood plugs?  I made my first attempt at this yesterday and quickly realized I do not have the proper tool for this or was using a very poor technique.  It will be okay this time because I can create a smooth surface that will be painted over but need a better way in the event the wood plugs will show.  

[michael evans]

Hi rita ,cut the plugs off a little proud and finish by sanding with a electric sander.80 grit sanding disc good for this and then a 120 grit too finish hope this helps ,mick.

[Ken Darga]

Rita,

I generally use a flex blade flush-cut saw.

Apply masking tape around the peg, so as to minimize scaring the finished surface.

NOTE: Some flush-cut saws may scratch the finished. The teeth are very small and thin, and can easily be deformed.

Examine the teeth before proceeding.  If any are out of alignment, then can be tapped lightly back into place,

using a small tap hammer.  The blade needs to be on a flat metal surface, akin to a steel block, than press the misaligned teeth back into place.

I use different size flush-cut or razor saws---

4" for small plugs and an 8" for larger objects.

Some home-centers stock some inexpensive models, that will suffice for the DYI'r.

Handy 4" flexible thin blade.

Approx $10

Folds for storage.

Fit nicely in a pocket or apron.

.           

A flush-cut dovetail saw.

Approx $16

6-1/2" 26 tooth

cuts on the pull stroke

Another Option:

An ocillating tool, with a flush-cutting blade.

Alternate blade style

[Rita B.]

Thanks Mick,  I attempted to cut flush right off and only resulted in cutting into the piece.

 

Ken, helpful idea with adding the tape.  I can see where that would help.  I had used my oscillating tool since that was all I had.  Certain I need a new blade.  One more day of high heat so instead of trying to work, I think I will head out to shop for a decent hand held flush cut saw.

[David Dean]

Mrs. Rita if you are useing plugs try this little trick cut a 1/16" to a 1/8" off the end of your plug remeber to keep the angle dry fit and than on to glue and fitting it in and I like to rubbe some saw dust over top of it and dry and sand.

[Ken Darga]

Personally, I don't glue the plugs into place.

At a later date, if for some reason access is needed to the screw for removal or tightening,

the plug can be readily removed and reinserted.

[David Dean]

Like this Mrs. Rita I now it anit by the book but its easyer than that other stuff. 

[Rita B.]

Thanks for all the tips.   I will try each one and see which one works the best for me and thanks for the photo Mr. Dean :)   That explained exactly what you meant.

 

[Jay Boutwell]

Hi Rita, The discussions above pretty much describe the methods of cutting off plugs.  Mine are using a flush cut saw and glue.  Immediately after gluing the plug in place I will use some fine sandpaper and sand the area of the plug.  The saw dust will hide any defects in the wood.  The attached photo will show the results of this method.  if possible use a plug from the same piece of material and position the grain to match as close as possible.  I normally use my own plug cutter and cut my own plugs.

The photos attached shows the plug before any finish is applied.  These are straight plugs driven in however the plug cut with a 3/8 in plug cutter and driven into a pocket hole gives the same results.

[Rita B.]

Thanks Jay,   my current project will not have plugs where the grain will show since only the top will have a stain with the grain exposed but I am taking "notes to self" when the need arises that I will need to plug a hole that I need to disguise as well as possible.  I am enjoying the process of skill building and learning of tips and techniques to employ with each project.