First Kreg project

[Tom Kleist]

I just assembled my first Kreg Project, and I found you really have to pay attention. I had been practicing on 3/4 in. wood, but the project is made from 2X4's and 2X8's and forgot to reset the collar on the drill bit. I realized the problem when I broke the screw off. This project was out of an old book at the library, and is supposed to be a coffee table, rustic and rough looking. We built it to be a plant table/stand on the porch. It sure will support her heavy plants! Between the Kreg pocket joinery and the size of the lumber, it is one heavy, sturdy table. Lets see her break this one. After a couple of missteps, the Kreg system sure fits me.

[Ken Darga]

I'd suggest practicing on some scrap pieces of wood, before delving into a project.

Start with 3/4" pine, and then with some 2x4's.

Also, make a few joints, using 1/2" thick pine stock, using the mini-jig.

 

Make short sample test pieces---such as ''corner'' joints,  ''T'' joints and angle joints.

 

After your done, you can disassemble the pieces and recycle the wood and screws them for other uses.

 

The wood pieces can be reused for making various handy jigs and fixtures---

such as spacers, stop blocks, or the like.

 

Always keep pieces of scrap wood handy to make test runs; such as for router cutting.

Also, making biscuit joints and dowel pinned joints.

[Tom Kleist]

I took your advice and have made several joints of different styles and make up. Making joints of two divverent sizes of wood took some learning, but that sure does solve many problems. These jigs make even a novice able to do things.

[Ken Darga]

TIP: One can also use wood scrap pieces/cut-offs, and the like, to make set-ups pieces,

such as in routing.

 

Ex; like in making tongue and groove joints---

Once you get the set-up/joint piece, made to the desired size/dimensions, keep the short pieces, mark them and keep them together---I wrap them together with a section of making tape, so as to identify them for future use.

Then reuse them to reset your cutter bit height and depth, for future use, on subsequent use.

 

When making tongue and groove joints, make all the groove joints first, then followed by the tongue joints.

Mark the ''back side'' of each joint, like with a small ''x''.  The ''x'' side will always be ''up'', and visible, when you position it on your router table.  Also, place the ''x'' near the work-piece edge that will be along the machined joint. 

You'll get consistent results, making subsequent joints.