can you use kreg screws in MDF particle board?

[charles rivers]

Has any one used Kregg for securing MDF particle board?  If so, which type of screw holds best and do you have any  tips about using the kreg products with MDF and/or any problems with the durability of the joint?

 

thank you

[Michael Moldenhauer]

I have built 2 tool storage units using melamine coated MDF shelving. I used my Kreg Jig and no glue. Had no problems with splitting.

[PAMELA NEWELL]

Ken.Thank you for taking the time to reply. The reason I have not used coarse thread screws is because a friend passed away and left me a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig and an a allot of fine thread screws,no coarse thread. I am disabled and on a very limited budget, but because I am sure you have a great deal more experience than I do, I am going to invest In some coarse thread screws for my next MDF project. Thanks again.

Ken Darga said:

Pam,

Why don't you use the ''coarse'' thread screws, as recommended by KREG tools?

PAMELA NEWELL said:

>>> ...when using MDF I use glue and fine thread pocket screws. Never had a problem./p>

[Ken Darga]

I've experimented with using fine thread screws in soft wood---they stripped-out under very little torque---much less vs the course thread.

  The fine thread screws will not provide the holding power, and will more easily strip-out, in soft woods.

  Do this comparison:  

Place a fine thread screw, of the same diameter size, alongside a coarse thread screw, and note the difference in the pitch of the screws.

With the coarse thread screws, there is a great spacing, which will result in greater holding power.

The more material between the threads, the better.

  NOTE: if one inadvertently installs a fine-thread screw, and then wants to change to a coarse thread,

don't use the same hole---drill a new hole. 

PAMELA NEWELL said:

Ken.Thank you for taking the time to reply. The reason I have not used coarse thread screws is because a friend passed away and left me a Kreg Pocket Hole Jig and an a allot of fine thread screws,no coarse thread. I am disabled and on a very limited budget, but because I am sure you have a great deal more experience than I do, I am going to invest In some coarse thread screws for my next MDF project. Thanks again.

[Robert Brennan]

You can use Kreg screws in both MDF and particleboard, from my experience I would only use washer backed screws and as the other members have already replied glue also.

Both construction mediums are recycled timber products (rubbish) compressed somehow and glued/bonded  together some how. neither is waterproof or water resistant unless specifically identified,and I think its only particle board, which has a green appearance in the edge.

Cannot comment on the structural applications of either item apart from I would not build my home out of it.

As to why cabinet makers still use it in kitchen cupboards is a mystery to me as its a "wet area" anyway.

There is another product available which is structurally rated and its called OSB.

 Personally I never use Kreg screws in MDF as I dont want my router to hit a screw and damage it whilst I am using the template.

[Greg Finch]

O.K., all you fine woodworkers out there. I'll give you my $.02 worth concerning this seemly conundrum: Mdf/particle b'rd &.screws (fine vs.course threads). I was a sales/service tech. in the fastener industry for over 40 years. Some I will"advise y'all based on that plus 5+  decades of woodworking experience. #1) always pre-drill the Mdf prior to screwing; & drill a small countersink in both the backside of the outside piece & the inside receiving member ( i.e. a case back to sides/bottom/top/shelf(s).  Performing this added step to your assembly is, yes...onerous to say the least, but will eliminate what was called "erupting" in one of the earlier replies. Btw, the industry term for those "eruptions" is the very scientific word : "pooching". You will not only not get those "poochings", but these extra countersinks negate the problem of Mdf debris pushing back on the part you're attempting to attach to the carcase. & yes, by all means use course- threaded screws ( more material-grabbing occurs because of the greater surface area afforded the course-threaded s  crew's shaft/threads). As the screw thread enters the pre-drilled hole the displaced Mdf has nowhere to go but outside of the hole. Now as to gluing or not.. the finished goods will be much stronger, but if said item is  to ever be disassembled ( for example: a KD unit or jig ..then don't.    The old CombatDoc
 

[chris schnepf]

Use TiteBond's Melamine glue for sure.  Do not glue the white finish to another piece with white finish. Raw cut to whiite finish will work.  I have used the course Kreg screws with success.

[chris schnepf]

I am well along on my current project of building a Murphy bed and matching side cabinets out of melamine  and some poplar.  THE CLIENT WANTED TO USE melamine.  I had very little experience with it as I like native lumber..I did do alot of research prior to beginning and am so glad I did.  I bought the $100.00 blade by Freud thin kerf for Melamine, two bottles of Tite Bond for Melamine, and a new carbide router bit to cut the dadoes for starters.  I am now well along with the assembly and am very surprised in a positive way.  I will admit it is more fragile to bumps than native or plywood.  I failed to mention I also made a new zero insert for the new blade.  Don't be afraid to work with Melamine.  Proper saw saw blade, proper router bit, proper glue, Kreg pocket screws (course threads), and care in handling are all required.  Good Luck.

[charles rivers]

thanks to all! sorry it took so long to aknowledge your responses.   i did read your replies as I get them by email, just trying to make ends meet.  Boy,  if I could only use Kreg Tools and fastners in my work, I know i could make "ends meet" ....

 

just a little screwy humor, ha HA