Beaded face frame system

[Carl Turner]

I have just purchased the beaded face frame system and I was wondering how much wider would you need to make the rails so that you get the desired width for your project.  I didn't see anything in the materials which came with it that covers this. (ex. you have a face frame that when finished would be 24" W the stiles and rails are both 1 1/2" wide that would leave the rail L to be 21" if you were not using the face fame system.  Since you are notching the rails to fit into the stiles there must be some extra lenth added to the rails to get the finished W of 24".  Please let me know if anyone has the answer to this questions.

 

Thanks

[Jay Boutwell]

Carl, If you are going to make the finished face frame width of 24 inches using 1 1/2 inch wide stock then add the 2 widths of the stiles of 1 1/2 inches  making it 3 inches.  Subtract the 3 inches from the 24 in finished width making the rail a total of 21 inches.  Because you are doing a notch in the two stiles you would add the amount of the debth of the notch of each stile to the end of the rail to get the finished amount.  The system I use requires 7/16  deep notches for a 3/8 inch bead so two times the 7/16 inches is 7/8 of an inch so the rail needs to be cut to a length of 21 7/8 inches long.  Different bead widths require a different debth notch .  You have the initial rail length of 21 inches so add the debth of each notch to this amount.  They have to be percise to make the bead miters correct.  Your set up sheet should explain the notch debth requirement for each each different bead widths and must be followed exactually to make  the bead miters correct.

[Ian Pople]

Hi Guys, there are a few other things to bear in mind when using the face frame system, which are guaranteed to bite you in the butt if they slip your mind. Firstly, when you have decided on the depth of your bead, your notch depth must exactly match the bead depth. The quickest way of ensuring this is by using the Kreg set-up bars.The set ranges from 1/8" - 1/2". When you are doing the math, the added length on the rails is DOUBLE your notch depth. Secondly, even minute variations of the azimuth of your router shaft (perfectly 90 deg from router table surface on 2 axes) will make differences to your fit-up. This is usually caused by differences in the spring tensions in the plunge arms and can change every time you make an adjustment. I have found that this angle can even change between cuts. The only solution that I have found is to use a solid collar router, rather than the plunge type. If you don't have that option, check the cutter continuously. A table lift will also make a big difference in this regard. Thirdly, you need to be absolutely sure that your router table is completely flat. This sounds obvious, but even 1/32" variation between the center if the table and opposite corners will affect both the notching and the beading. Lay a perfectly straight edge corner to corner and if you can see light anywhere along the length of the straight edge, you have a problem with the table. This is particularly critical when cutting multiple notches in one length of timber. Tally - Ho lads, go get em.

[Steve Hopkins]

This may be a stupid question but here goes Is the Bead Face frame system just for making doors or is it for actual face frame construction?

[Jay Boutwell]

Steve, The beading system is for building the face frames for inset doors and drawer openings .  What it does is cut the bead onto the face frames so that there is a bead all around the doors and drawers openings.  The new system allows you to cut the bead into the face frame where as the old system was to build the face frame in the traditional way and then cut a bead onto a seperate piece of wood and cut it off and then glue and nail it onto the face frame.  It is a simpler method of doing the work and more accurate.  Excellent tooling by the way.
 
Steve Hopkins said:

This may be a stupid question but here goes Is the Bead Face frame system just for making doors or is it for actual face frame construction?

[KregRep]

Jay, thank you for sharing your expertise on the Precision Beaded Face-Frame System! 

 

I stumbled across this video the other day which I thought might be a good resource for this thread. Enjoy!

 

[Steve Hopkins]

Jay

Thanks for your input and your help I'm kind of on the fence about purchasing this unit, I do have to admit that the finished product looks great.

Jay Boutwell said:

Steve, The beading system is for building the face frames for inset doors and drawer openings .  What it does is cut the bead onto the face frames so that there is a bead all around the doors and drawers openings.  The new system allows you to cut the bead into the face frame where as the old system was to build the face frame in the traditional way and then cut a bead onto a seperate piece of wood and cut it off and then glue and nail it onto the face frame.  It is a simpler method of doing the work and more accurate.  Excellent tooling by the way.
 
Steve Hopkins said:

This may be a stupid question but here goes Is the Bead Face frame system just for making doors or is it for actual face frame construction?

[Jay Boutwell]

Steve, it is a good investment worth every penny as it will definately open up a new world in cabinet making.  The thing with the old method of doing a beaded face frame took alot of time and sometimes the results is not as good as you would wish it to be.  One of the hallmarks in cabinet making is the inset door and drawer and it takes much accuracy to produce a quality fit between the drawer/door .  Now add in the fact that without the beading system you need to produce a bead using a beading bit onto a seperate piece of wood  then cut it free on a table saw.  Then you must cut each stick and add a miter to each end and glue and nail it into place.  Often after cutting 4 sticks and attaching them you begin to have inaccuracy in each miter and thickness of the face frame of which you must sand or cut away fitting the door/drawer to a equal tollerance.   It can be done it just takes patience and time.   

Justin has completed a cabinet with the beaded face frame and I'm sure it was a time consuming feat to get the look and fit that he has.  He has an perfect example of what one should look like.

kreg has taken the work out of this and makes it a joy to build a faceframe in less time than that of the old method.  I have a 12 drawer chest of drawers  posted on my project photo page that is done using my own beading system and the looks is one that many like in the inset door/drawer versions.  i have done many cabinet jobs the old fashion way and now that there is a beading system I would never revert back to the old method.  If you are considering building beaded face frame cabinets I would encourage you to make the purchase as it will impress you.  Want to know more and perhaps see a slide show of the building of the 12 drawer chest my e-mail is: [e-mail].  I will send you the link.

 

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Steve Hopkins said:

Jay

Thanks for your input and your help I'm kind of on the fence about purchasing this unit, I do have to admit that the finished product looks great.

Jay Boutwell said:

Steve, The beading system is for building the face frames for inset doors and drawer openings .  What it does is cut the bead onto the face frames so that there is a bead all around the doors and drawers openings.  The new system allows you to cut the bead into the face frame where as the old system was to build the face frame in the traditional way and then cut a bead onto a seperate piece of wood and cut it off and then glue and nail it onto the face frame.  It is a simpler method of doing the work and more accurate.  Excellent tooling by the way.
 
Steve Hopkins said:

This may be a stupid question but here goes Is the Bead Face frame system just for making doors or is it for actual face frame construction?