ANYONE USED THESE MILLER DOWELS?

[michael evans]

[Ken Darga]

Mick,

They're more difficult to use vs regular dowels or bisquits.

Pins have to be driven in.

(The pins can be pressed-in, with the proper tools and clamping).

Driving the pins creates force on the assembly which pulls it apart.

(joints must be clamped firmly together, before driving in the dowels).

Don't drop the drill bit!

Pony-up for extra drill bit(s).

I've heard tell of them easily breaking.

TIP:  place a suitable size block, with an counterbored hole, over the top of the dowel, before driving them in.

Hammer on the block vs the dowel.

A counterbored hole over the dowel will reduce likelyhood damaging the dowel.

[michael evans]

Hi ken they have worked pretty good for me upto now,but as you say you need too pay attention when driving in [block ]etc.I repaired a 1920/s chair for a friend useing miller dowels still doing good .Oh do like the idea of the counterbored block too hammer in the dowel nice touch.

[Ken Darga]

Mick,

Personally, I prefer a straight dowel, with spiral grooves.

The grooves permit air and excess glue to escape,

allowing the dowel to be seated to the bottom of the drilled hole.

The grooves allow the glue rising up around the grooves in the dowel, which spreads the glue and results in increased glue surface area.

1/8" dowels---3 grooves.

1/4" dowels---4 grooves.

3/8" dowels---6 grooves.

1/2" dowels---6-8 grooves.

Alternate dowel:

Straight grooves along the dowels edge.

Shallow "U" shape grooves, can be added lengthwise to a dowel, using a rotary tool.

This approach can be used when store-bought dowels are not available.

(A razor saw or flush cutting saw can be used as an alternate to a rotary tool).

Chamfer the leading edge of the dowel---

makes it easier to start the dowel in the hole.

When there's need to make larger diameter dowels---

such as, on some timber structures, with exposed beams, or the like, the exposed dowel ends give the project a nice appeal.

An alternate appeal, is to cut a slot across the width of the dowel, and insert a wedge and cut flush.