A plug for pocket holes

[michael evans]

Hi had my first experience with kreg pocket plugs today.My first attempt at making a coat rack needed to put 8 plugs in.Kinda figured it out for myself i guess it aint a science. The plugs seemed a little long ,i guess that way they suit most applications.Plenty of glue and i found it best to tap them in with a block of wood and a mallet.These were pine plugs so did not hit them to hard.Overall pretty pleased with them .Some of the plugs when installed were a bit rough ie a couple of pit holes on the edges but with plenty of sanding came out pretty good,well done KREG.Anyone else had more experience with plugs than me?Whats the best proceedure for installing? REGARDS MICK.

[Ken Darga]

''Whats the best proceedure for installing'' ?

 

Mike, 

It sounds like you got it figured out.

It's really a simple procedure.

Select the material and appropriate diameter.

Cut one end at a 90 (when you make your own).

Insert the plug into the hole, ''til it bottoms out.

Cut it flush with the surface,

Sand, and finish.

I tap them in gently, with a small mallet---

(no need to use an 8 lb maul).

One of Kreg's pocket hole drill guide blocks is equipped with a feature, so as to push the plug into the hole.

Some have written, that they glue the plug in place.

Personally, I don't glue them in place---

so that if necessary, the plug can be removed.

(REMOVAL process:  drill a pilot hole in the exposed end of the plug.

Insert in wood screw a few turns, grasp the screw head with a plier action tool, and pull out the plug). 

The store bought plugs are intentionally long.

REASONAL:  to compliment pocket holes that may have been drilled deeper, that the required depth.

For some joints, I intentionally make pocket holes deeper, so as to get more threads engaged into the joining piece, and therefore need longer plugs.

 

[michael evans]

Thanks Ken,useful tip how too get the little blighters out.Never gave it a thought about wanting to remove them.I believe the big fatman in a red suit is bringing little ole me a 3/8" plug /dowel cutter for xmas.Ifind it very confusing, us useing millimeters/and horrible centimeters here in the UK.And you guys useing feet and inches[which i prefer ].Some nameless person in Europe dictating what we can use for measuring and wieghing ,pound to a dollar there not a Woodworker ha ha.Also health and safety gone mad here were not aloud dado sets for our tablesaws here .So determined are they that european tablesaws made with a different size arbor/ spindle so the stack sets wont fit ,thats the official line anyway.Surely its upto me how many fingers i want to cut off in one pass ha ha ,have a good week.MICK.

[Ken Darga]

Hi Mike,

Thanks for your timely reply.

1.  I’ve experienced ‘’removal’’ of a plug, when an item had to be repaired or replaced.

When the plug is glued in place, it was a big ‘’chore’’ to remove it.  Taking several smaller drilled holes, followed by reaming out the remainder of the plug, followed by access to removal or retightening of the screw.

  When a joint has been exposed to racking, or the like, access is needed to the screws to retighten or adding of an additional pocket hole screw, near the previously installed screw(s).  In some cases, it may be difficult to access the area to add an additional screw after the products completion.

2.  Plug cutters are a very useful tool, and handy to have in ones shop.  It’s come in handy for me on occasions. 

This style plug cutter is very useful---it features a self-centering device.

Unique spring-loaded self-centering tip guides cutter and prevents walking to cut a smooth, tapered plug every time.   (A few dollars more over plug cutters without the self-centering tip, but worth it for precision cut plugs).

  

TIP:  Don’t wait for the fat-man, in the red suit.  Just go with the one in coveralls.

3. I’ve had to learn to deal with both---english and metric.  There are some handy tools--- scales, measuring devices, and the like, that feature both.

I like this handy tool---6’’ slide calipers.

It features english and metric---decimal and fractions, with the press-of-a-button.

4.  Re ‘’dado’s & rabbets’’---I’ve learned to adjust.  

I keep my old HD table saw, because I can use dado-saw blades.  On some project pieces, I prefer to use a router to make the wider cuts on my router table.  For larger pieces, my choice is a hand router with plunge base.  I’ve made some precision dead-on adjustable jigs, for my routers, just for cutting dado’s and rabbets.  In most cases, it’s easier, simpler and faster making cuts with a router vs a table saw.

For wide dado’s, that require multiple cutting passes, I set-up two straight-edges,  spaced the required distance apart to guide the router base.

A circle saw can also be used to make rabbets and dados---with the assistance of an accurate straight edge guide(s)---one on each side of the saw base.  For accuracy, make “set-up blocks”, the required lengths to each side of the saw base.  (I’ve had to resort to this method, on some job-sites, when tools or means were not readily available.

HINT:  Alum channels, or angles, are handy to have on hand, for this purpose.

When constructing custom objects, on-site and build-on-the-go, I need to be prepared.

5.  I’ve made custom bushings, to accommodate English/metric holes & shafts.

A piece of spring steel wire, wrapped around the shaft, to make up the different from OD to ID, can be used---akin to a split “O-ring”.

CAUTION:  Run the machine, and test for wobble & vibration.  If either occurs, don’t use the machine, until the proper fit is achieved. 

[michael evans]

Wow Ken thats a lot to take in, for my one and only grey cell.Your right about the digital calipers, i got a pair.

[Charles J. (Bud) Smith]

Nick

If you get in a jam or run out of Kreg plugs just tap in a 3/8" dowel rod and sand it flush. It will do a great job.