"John, you are pushing the lower limits of pocket hole technology. 1/2" wood (which is really 7/16" or 12 mm) is difficult to do well. I did a lot of experimenting, and gave up on it. What did work for me nicely (building…"
John Ekholm's Discussions
Working with 1/2" thick wood
12 Replies
I'm new to Kreg pocket hole fastening and I'm trying to build a simple 90 deg. butt jointed frame with 1/2" thick white oak.When I join the frame using the recommended 1" long fine thread screws…Continue
Started this discussion. Last reply by Rick Jan 18.
John Ekholm's Page
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John Ekholm replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"Many thanks to everyone who's responded to my question.
I'm going to give it another try this weekend and I'll let you know the outcome.
This blog is great for beginners like me.
John
"
Ken Darga replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"The washerless screw heads
will penetrate beyond the bottom of the hole, in ''soft woods''.
During installation in soft woods, use a ''low torque''.
This low torque style/type power tool,…"
"no the two dime's are thicker but that was the only way to stop blowing out my egde's and and going thow the other side what Kreg hasnt said but the pan head scerws will suck down in to the seacnd hole if you dont be careful it's…"
Jens Jensen replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"David isnt two dimes same as two nickles and a dime
"
Jay Boutwell replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"Yes they are and that is a reason I try to use nails that is cut like a chisel and shoot the nail across the grain. This forces the nail to cut the grain rather that seperating the grain. This seems to help trememdously when…"
Ken Darga replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"Jay,
The air nailers are notorious for the fastener exiting the finished side of a work-piece.
A nail/brad/staple, when following the grain, can exit the work-piece.
"
Jay Boutwell replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"John all the members below are correct in what they are saying. Usually the bulge in the wood is the end of the screw being very close to the surface. IOn addition to this something I have found in all the years that I have been driving…"
KregCS replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"John,
I was curious if your material is a true 1/2" thick. If it is a little bit undersized it can change the placement of the screw causing it to almost come through like you are referring to. The best solution is to either…"
Ken Darga replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"John,
By what you've described, or I understand what you've written---
the screw has gone too far---
nearly exiting the back side of your work piece---
which has resulted in the ''bulge''.
Back off on the drill…"
Onno Kok replied to John Ekholm's discussion 'Working with 1/2" thick wood'"Yes, a picture of where it is bulging would be helpful. You can post it directly into this discussion, or in your gallery and let us know it's there. If I understand correctly where you are getting the bulge, you may have over driven the screws…"
"Well are you useing a Microjig and if so you'll have to use two nickle's and a dime to set your stop callor and go slowset your drill at 7 or 8 . oh some pic's would help on projects like this so poeple can help you batter."
John Ekholm posted a discussionWorking with 1/2" thick wood
I'm new to Kreg pocket hole fastening and I'm trying to build a simple 90 deg. butt jointed frame with 1/2" thick white oak.When I join the frame using the recommended 1" long fine thread screws there is a noticeable bulge on the face of the frame where the screws have set. It appears that the screws are much too close below the finished face of the frame.I've rechecked all the settings for the 1/2" material and seem to have it right.Any suggestions on what to do?See More
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