Pocket holes to hold top on

Comment

Comment by Matt W on October 19, 2015 at 7:14pm

Yeah you're right their blades do suck! You probably get a lot more bang for the buck ripping them yourself. They charge 20 dollars for a 1/2 inch 2 feet by 4 feet birchwood board.

Comment by Tom on October 19, 2015 at 6:18pm

I rip the plywood myself on the table saw. You can have Home Depot cut it for you as long as they cut it square. There will probably be a lot of tear out cause their blades are terrible. You don't necessarily need to put poly over it if you painting the whole thing. The poly will keep the logo and paint from wearing out. If I were painting it all, I myself would poly it anyway.

Comment by Matt W on October 19, 2015 at 5:27pm

8 sets in 12 hours is very impressive by the way! Do you use the HLVP sprayer if you're just going to spray the whole thing with a solid color and then add the logo on?

Comment by Matt W on October 19, 2015 at 5:16pm

Oh ok that makes perfect sense. Do you cut the 2 ft x 4 ft plywood boards yourself or buy them precut from Home Depot?

Comment by Tom on October 19, 2015 at 5:09pm

I use 1/2" birch plywood for the top only. Everything is 5/4x4 pine. The camera angle prob makes it look different. I use semi gloss polycrylic. The bags are supposed to slide anyway. The semi gloss polycrylic is perfect for it. I don't use any wood glue but it would only make the joints that much stronger. First I build the frames and then screw the plywood on. I oversize the plywood and use a flush trim bit with the router to get a perfect edge.

Comment by Matt W on October 19, 2015 at 4:39pm

So you use just regular plywood over birch plywood? I think that's what was happening to me (using the SPS over the SML type). The wooden pieces at the top and bottom don't look as thick as 5/4 x 4 pine boards. Are they the same size as the side pieces? Thank you for being helpful. I'm making University of Michigan boards for my brother's birthday and yours are very impressive. By spraying the poly on are the boards to slippery? I know you said they come out having a glass finish which is awesome but I have played on some boards where the bags just fly off because they're too slippery.

Last question is do you use any wood glue to secure the plywood to the 5/4 x 4 pine boards or just the pocket holes? Also if you could give me a step by step process in how you attach the pieces of wood that would be awesome. You've been very helpful. Thanks again.

Comment by Tom on October 19, 2015 at 4:21pm

Hey Matt. I put my Kreg jig on the 1/2" setting since I am screwing into 1/2" plywood. (It's actually 15/32 from Home Depot). I use the 1" SML type screws since they have the bigger screw head. The SPS type will sink into the pine boards too easy and poke through the plywood. This might be what's happening to you. I use 5/4x4 pine boards also sold at Home Depot. They are a much better quality than a 2 X4. They are more expensive though. I use a HLVP sprayer to spray on 6 coats of Polycrylic. Sanding using 220 grit between coats if needed. After the first coat of poly the wood grain will rise and it will feel really rough so give it a real good sanding. After sanding the first coat of poly I then apply my logo and continue the coats. When all said and done it comes out like glass. I've done about 45 sets this way. I sell them for $185 with the bags. I got it down to a T. I'll do 8 sets start to finish in about 12 man hours. Hope this all helps

Comment by Matt W on October 19, 2015 at 1:18pm

I've built a Detroit Lions cornhole board that came out so so. I have the K5 and tried to put the screws up like you did but went through the birch plywood. Just curious what settings you had on your kreg jig and what size screws you used? Did you use 1/2 inch birch or 5/8 inch birch. Also did you use 2 x 4's to go around or thinner wood? How many coats of polyurethane did you use on the top? Thanks.